LATEST ARTICLES

Finke Desert Race court action stopped

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

Action against Finke Desert Race Inc by the NT Motor Accident Commission over the death of a spectator has been stopped.

A Notice of Discontinuance has been filed on November 18. The case had been before the Supreme Court under the file number 2024/02067/SC.

A spokesman for the commission says the terns of any settlement will not be disclosed.

Canberra man Nigel Harris, 60, a keen amateur photographer, died from multiple blunt-force injuries when a competing trophy truck, its steering broken when hitting two bumps, crashed into spectators during the 2021 Finke Desert Race.

Coroner Elisabeth Armitage earlier this year found protection of spectators from significant known risks were “entirely inadequate”.

Both Motorsport Australia and the Finke committee, aware of the “extreme” danger to spectators for years, had done “little to nothing” to mitigate the risks, the ABC reported from Judge Armitage’s enquiry.

The race organisation did not respond to calls from the Alice Springs News seeking comment.

PHOTO from the Supreme Court shows Mr Harris a moment before he was hit.

Six storeys, and vested interest questions

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

The new government has inherited a conundrum from its Labor predecessor which made a deal for 72 units with the latest intending residential developers of the Melanka block.

The project depends on the Planning Minister lifting the height limit from three storeys to six.

The question may arise whether the Minister, in making his decision, is acting as a representative of the people of Alice Springs or to protect a deal between his government and major commercial interests. This could taint the process by vested interest suspicions.

Of course, the same problem would have been faced by the ALP’s Minister.

Through no fault of his, all this has now landed in the lap of the new Minister, Josh Burgoyne.

It’s an issue of great interest to Town Council Member Marli Banks (pictured).

She is campaigning for keeping the height limit where it is and invites the public to support a petition.

“By establishing clear regulations government can effectively encourage private sector investment,” says Cr Banks.

“Well designed policies can stimulate confidence among investors, leading to sustainable economic development.”

It is clear that Mr Burgoyne, who was not available for comment today, and his government will need to come to grips with this problem: Will he be seen as acting in the interest of the public, or to protect a deal with the huge Sitzler construction company and interests linked to the powerful Aboriginal Centrecorp.

The block in Todd Street just outside the CBD has a chequered history: In 2014 an eight-story complex had received consent but failed to proceed.

Cr Banks says in a flyer the developer “aims to construct large tower blocks intended to accommodate Fly-In-Fly-Out (FIFO) workers.

“This project not only undermines community well-being, but also violates our town’s building regulations. Specifically, it disregards the limit of three stories for residential developments, instead seeking approval for buildings that are twice the allowed height.

“Alice Springs has always been a low-rise town. These high-rise buildings are not in line with the character of the town, threatening the unique atmosphere that makes Alice Springs special.

“It’s a model that relies on government support to stay viable, benefiting only a few private interests while the community bears the impact. There’s no mention in the plans about fostering long-term personal investment in the town, focusing instead on accommodations that serve transient workers​,” says Cr Banks.

“The entire process has lacked transparency, and the community feels shut out. Decisions that directly affect our daily lives, the town’s character, and local services have been made without meaningful consultation or public input. Residents are left feeling unheard and excluded.”

PHOTO at top: Drawing of the eight storey complex approved 10 years ago but failed to go ahead.

South of the Gap: gallery fight goes on

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By KIERAN FINNANE

Grassroots opposition to the location of the Territory government’s art gallery project anywhere within the Anzac Hill precinct continues.

The scaled-down version of the project proposed by the new CLP Government scarcely rated a mention at Thursday evening’s South of the Gap rally.

Whether it’s a three-storey building squeezed into the carpark on Wills Terrace opposite the pub, or the former government’s elaborate $7m design for the site further north along the river, it’s not welcome in this area, say a group of Arrernte Traditional Owners and supporters from the community.

Their “South of the Gap” slogan suggests an alternative location, but their focus is chiefy on protecting the women’s sacred site in the vicinity of the hill, where they held their last rally.

On Thursday they rallied at the courthouse lawns. Behind them, the multi-storey edifice of the Supreme Court (above, centre rear) drew a number of scornful references.

It was seen as likely comparable to the CLP’s proposed three-storey structure on a cramped site – not the kind of building they want in this town, especially when the money could go to actually helping people, young people in particular.

The CLP’s preservation of Anzac Oval was welcomed. It’s a community facility with a long history, acknowledged Traditional Owner Faron Peckham, “the first green oval in the Northern Territory.”

Otherwise, what politicians have or have not said about the gallery is of little concern to them, said Mr Peckham (below).

“For us, it’s about our community, about this Country, and more importantly it’s about our sacred sites.”

His conception of community is broad.

Mparntwe is a place where “many cultures meet, where we all leave our footprints” but this a responsibility as well as a privilege.

“These lands are shared, sacred and alive with history,” he said.

“If we listen and see beyond our world views, we can share each other’s views.

“By coming together as a community, we can care for this place – this Mparntwe, this Alice Springs …

“When we look after the land, the land looks after us. The Country does not discriminate, only people do.”

Taking up this responsibility holds a great promise, he argued:

“Let us imagine what we could achieve if we came together, bringing all our perspectives and differences to build a stronger community for the future.”

He tried to convey what sacred sites means to Arrernte people:

“These sites are not just stories of the past, they are the essence of who we are today and guide us into the future.

“[They] are not simply places. They are custodians of knowledge, spirituality and life itself.”

The site in question being a women’s site, he then handed over to his mother Elaine Peckham and his aunty Doris Stuart, among the custodians of this Country who “have been criticised, devalued and disrespected by not even being asked what they think.”

Mrs Stuart, in particular, has been loud and clear on her opposition to siting of the gallery in the Anzac Hill precinct.  The former government did its best to isolate her; the current government did not even make mention of Traditional Owners when they made their recent announcement. For the CLP it was more about the rugby oval than a cultural project of supposed national significance.

On Thursday she was not isolated. Her “granny” Ngarla Kunoth-Monks was MC for the event. The Liddle family were there in good number, and some of them spoke.

Among brief comments from Barbara Satour (nee Liddle) was a reflection of the kind of community Mr Peckham had alluded to: she was glad to see her neighbours there, smiling at a row of non-Aboriginal people smiling back, who have made their home here – “chosen to belong,” as Mr Peckham would put it.

Mrs Stuart said what she has said so often:

“We’re here to make sure that women’s site is protected from other stories. We don’t want those stories put on top of what we’ve grown up with, what we get our connection from …

“That gallery has to go, wherever, not here!”

Mrs Peckham spoke of the struggle and pain of standing up to government plans, whether it’s the Intervention or a high-rise building on a sacred site.

“We don’t want any more of that, enough is enough,” she said.

Still, she is “not going to lie down”.

“I walk the streets of Mparntwe Alice Springs with my head held high and proud of who I am.”

She is proud too of the passing of knowledge and strength “from generation to generation” as evidenced in her son Faron’s speech.

Yvonne Driscoll and Edan Baxter are among those who work with Mr Peckham on this South of the Gap organising.

Ms Driscoll was at the fore of the push to save Anzac Oval but in the course of that campaign was won over to the South of the Gap cause. Even though the oval has now been saved, she won’t be giving up the fight, she said.

There will be other actions organised, but meanwhile Mr Baxter urged all present to talk about the issues with family and friends, and to raise them with politicians, both Territory and Federal, especially now that MHR for Lingiari Marion Scrymgour has foreshadowed a possible intervention by the Federal Government which is stumping up $80m for the gallery.

Photo at top: From left Faron Peckham, Elaine Peckham, Doris Stuart, Ngarla Kunoth-Monks

Tourism started as a do-it-yourself venture

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I first travelled to Alice Springs on Sunday 3rd November 1955, arriving on TAA flight TN576 which left Adelaide at 6.40pm on the Saturday, with stops at Leigh Creek and Oodnadatta.

I arrived 12.20am and slept the remainder of the night at the residence of Mrs Jenkins at the corner of Parsons Street and Railway Terrace opposite the Post Office.

I awoke at sunrise and from my window witnessed the wonderful colourful effect that the rays of the sun had on the MacDonnell Ranges including the majestic Mount Gillen.

I was instantly affected by the beauty of the area.

Keith Castle, now aged 93, was one of the most influential figures in The Centre’s budding tourism industry. Editor ERWIN CHLANDA picked some gems from his 164 page memoir that is full of detail, dates, commercial information, but especially about the stories of people who devoted their lives to developing the region’s visitor industry.

They are only a handful of men and women but they all had skin in the game, big time, building accommodation, sometimes with their own hands, starting coach firms and developing tours: Stan Cawood, Bert and Kate Gardiner, Doug and Gil Green, Jack and Jim Cotterill, Bryan Bowman, Ian Conway, Harry and Joy Taylor, Bernie Kilgariff, Daisy and son Ly Underdown, Barry Bucholtz, Geoff Beames, just to mention some.

They turned Ross River, King’s Canyon, Ayers Rock, Simpson’s Gap, Palm Valley, Glen Helen into destinations.

Snippets from Mr Castle’s account illustrate the tenacity and resourcefulness of the industry’s founders.

The word government is hardly ever mentioned in his account, and promotion wasn’t in the hands of Darwin-based bureaucrats who, from current experience, are incapable of keeping the industry from freefall.

Instead, early operators parleyed TAA, one of Australia’s major domestic airlines from its inception in 1946 until its merger with QANTAS in 1992, into giving them a few free seats to take their pitch to the state capitals.

From June 21 into July 1962, [my wife] Shirley and I undertook tours with the Central Australian Tours Association (CATA): Seven days Ayers Rock and Kings Canyon staying at Ayers Rock Chalet and Wallara Ranch. Four days Western MacDonnell Ranges staying at Glen Helen Chalet. Four day Ross River Tour staying at Ross River Homestead. The day tours of Alice Springs town and Standley Chasm / Simpsons Gap.

We experienced what the operators had to deal with in this vast area with poor roads, in chalets where they had to provide their own water supplies, sewer and drainage facilities and electricity.

Late 1950s: Initially it was a group of four tour operators who provided chalet style accommodation “out bush” from Alice Springs and a hotel and a guest house in Alice Springs.

They commenced this enterprise as an unofficial loose group that became an incorporated body in January 1961 as CATA and then a Limited Company in late 1962.

The new company then decided to operate tours to Ayers Rock in the summer of 1957/1958. Several galvanised tin sheds which had been used for staff accommodation at the back of the Hotel Alice Springs were taken to Ayers Rock.

Lance Rust with several workers constructed from those sheds what was to become the Ayers Rock Chalet.

1958: Shortly after the first Rock tours started heavy rains washed away the road through Mount Quinn homestead and the route was changed to travel via Erldunda.

The first tour of each week was by road to Ayers Rock and returning by air and the second tour each week being by air to Ayers Rock and returning by road.

Connellan Airways, the local airline, provided the air travel for both those tours, flying by the “scenic route” along the MacDonnell Ranges over Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Gorge, Ormiston Gorge, Glen Helen Gorge, Finke River, Hermannsburg Mission, Lake Amadeus then to Ayers Rock.

The first manager of the Ayers Rock Chalet was Howard Rust. In1960 the shareholding in the company changed, when Jack and Elsie Cotterill decided to commence operating a tour to King’s Canyon. They sold their shareholding in Alice Springs Tours to Stanley Walter (Stan) Cawood.

Stan was the owner of Cawood Transport, which carried goods from the rail head at Alice Springs to Tennant Creek, Mt Isa, Katherine and Darwin.

1959: Harry Bloomfield the owner of Loves Creek cattle station invited the two Green brothers to use the abandoned homestead for their base.

Recognising the beauty of the area and its potential as a tourist destination they built timber cabins next to the remains of the Old Loves Creek homestead. They had a timber mill, used earlier for rail sleepers sold to the Commonwealth.

They built the first cabins from red gum timber of the area, and also rebuilt and renovated the old homestead providing a dining room, kitchen, bar and lounge areas.

A swimming pool was to be provided for their guests using a squatter’s tank near the homestead. Initially five cabins were built, including two single beds with en-suite shower and toilet facilities in each.

Standley Chasm

Very soon it was necessary to increase the number of cabins from five to ten in 1960. Members of the cattle industry fraternity were approached to assist with the new tourist venture as the availability of finance from banks and other sources was very limited.

Firstly the Clough family assisted them. When credit tightened in the cattle industry they had to reclaim their investments and Bryan Bowman of Coniston cattle station came to the rescue and assisted them to expand their tours. Bowman had already become involved in the tourist industry by assisting Bert Gardiner start Trailway Tours.

At the same time Harry Bloomfield agreed to relinquish his lease on the Loves Creek Cattle Station for the purpose of allowing the Green Brothers to apply for a 40 acre Special Purpose Lease to build a tourist resort – now Ross River – within the Loves Creek Cattle station.

In the early 50s Trailway Tours was formed by Bert and Kate Gardiner. They had arrived in Alice Springs and set up the Legion Taxi service and like many others could see the potential of a tour operation in the area.

Bert showed interest in the Western MacDonnell Ranges and particularly Glen Helen Gorge, and started tours to that area in 1954.

An approach was made to Bowman with the idea of renovating the deserted Glen Helen homestead to provide rooms for passengers, plus kitchen and lounge facilities. Bowman agreed and so became involved in that tourist venture, becoming a great supporter in the early formation and operation CATA.

Bert Gardiner started operating tours to the area on a four day basis. The first day was travelling to Glen Helen calling at Ellery Creek Big Hole, Serpentine George, and the Ochre Pit.

1980 Albion Denning

The second day’s activities began with viewing sunrise on nearby Mount Sonder in the west, then later a full day trip to Ormiston George and Ormiston Pound.

The third day was exploring Glen Helen Gorge and nearby gorges in the area including Redbank. Around 1960 or 1961 a road was constructed through Glen Helen Gorge alongside the Finke River, but the old river had other ideas, and the road was washed away in the next flood.

In 1959 Bert asked Reg Rechner of TAA for concessional airfares to enable him to travel to the capital cities to promote his tours to Glen Helen George and Central Australia. TAA agreed to provide concessional travel and as a result, tour operators from Alice Springs started calling on tourist bureaux and travel agencies particularly in South Australia and Victoria about tours in the winter months, May to September.

Convinced that the area had a huge potential, Jack and Elsie Cotterill decided to go it alone and operate tours to Kings Canyon.

They sold their shares in Alice Springs Tours to Stan Cawood, whose wife Ethell was the daughter of Daisy Underdown and the sister of Lycergus, known by all as Ly.

No land was available near the canyon, so after discussions with Aboriginal pastoralist Arthur Liddle, they completed an arrangement with him to build the tourist chalet on Angas Downs station.

Unfortunately the area with a suitable supply of water nearest to Kings Canyon was some 60 miles away from the canyon at Yowra Bore. It later became Wallara Ranch Motel.

A new “road” allowed the operation of their four-wheel drive coach to Kings Canyon in reasonable conditions when the weather was dry.

The story of the Elkira Court Motel starts in 1952 when Harry and Joy Taylor visited Alice Springs as tourists and were so moved by the beauty of the area that they vowed to return.

They did that in 1954 and at that time purchased a colonial style house in Bath Street owned by Claude Cashman.

On return to Victoria they left the house in the care of the ES&A Bank manager, Bill Mullins who, after his retirement from the bank, became the manager of the Oasis Motel, owned by Bernie Kilgariff.

Serpentine Gorge

Having taken up residence the Taylors renovated the house to become a guest house, increasing the number of rooms by building motel units.

Harry, the builder, tried to purchase a tip-truck in Alice Springs but was unable to find one at a reasonable price. He went to Adelaide and purchased one and returned up the South Road (the unsealed south Stuart Highway) loaded with materials.

To make the concrete blocks he obtained a license to mine sand from the Todd River and gravel from Gillen Creek near the base of Mount Gillen. By 1957 Elkira’s total capacity was 22 rooms.

The Hotel Alice Springs on the south-east corner of Gregory Terrace and Hartley Street was built by the Underdown family. It started operating as a hotel in 1932, having obtained a hotel license from the Northern Territory Administration.

The licensee for many years was Mrs Daisy Underdown. After her death it was taken over by son Ly.

In late 1947 the hotel provided accommodation and meals to the TAA air-crews for their overnight stays. They were accommodated in some of the earliest, and perhaps the first air-conditioned rooms in Central Australia.

The hotel was extended to a second floor in the early 1950s. Ly was the builder and made the materials at his cement brick works on the south-east bank of the Todd River near Heavitree Gap.

By the early 1950s Central Australia and Ayers Rock were becoming known as a tourist destination by many Australians. In September 1950 Len Tuit took a party of 22 school-boys and 11 masters from the rail at Finke to Ayers Rock and later that year escorted a group from Melbourne University to Ayers Rock.

In 1951 Eddie Connellan, having regularly diverted some of his cattle station mail runs to fly over Ayers Rock, applied for landing rights there.

1955: The Commonwealth Railways operated the passenger train “The Ghan” (pictured as it was in the 1930s) from Port Augusta to Alice Springs, leaving Port Augusta on a Thursday arriving in Alice Springs sometime between 11.30 am and 4.30 pm “or later” on a Saturday. It then left on its return journey to Port Augusta on Sundays at 11.00 am.

Trans-Australia Airlines (TAA) had flights to and from Adelaide six days a week, and to Darwin from Alice Springs four days a week.

In 1957, on a request from Len Tuit, Merv Andrews from Curtin Springs station drilled for water at Ayers Rock. In 1957 he found a supply and this stopped the need of carrying water in jerry cans from Curtin Springs to Ayers Rock on his tours.

To promote the tours and increase loadings Len began employing a “hospitality officer” who joined the Ghan at Finke to advise the passengers about tours and accommodation.

In 1958 Pioneer Tours joined forces with Len Tuit. The new operation conducted tours for some time as Pioneer-Tuit Tours. Pioneer Tours later purchased Tuit’s Coach Services tours and organization, including Mount Gillen Hotel and began expanding their Central Australian operations by building a Chalet at Serpentine Gorge and expanding and upgrading Mount Gillen Hotel and the tent camp at Ayers Rock, and introduced more modern coaches.

The Alice Springs Chamber of Commerce stated in 1960 that Central Australia had embarked on “what, undoubtedly will be her greatest season ever. From it could emerge undeniable proof that she has within her grasp a great national industry which, with proper development and encouragement, could outstrip cattle and mining as the Territory’s major money earner”.

On April 15, 1961 the new airline terminal and travel agency built by Ly Underdown was officially opened by Mr J (Jock) Nelson MHR, member for the Northern Territory in the Australian Parliament: “The potential value of the tourist industry to the Northern Territory is estimated at four million pounds a year.

This potential will make tourism as valuable as the pastoral industry – however to achieve this goal close co-operation is needed between the Government and private enterprise. By forming CATA, private enterprise has shown its interest, and it is up to the Government to expand such essential services as roads and water, and assist in the development of the various reserves and tourist attractions.”

Ian Conway with two elders on Dreamtime Tour.

1958: The Oasis Motel on Gap Road was owned by a group of local people. The prime organiser was Bernie Kilgariff whose family owned the land, and had operated a chicken farm there. He cleared the land at the northern end of the block and commenced laying foundations in 1959 for seven units and shortly later another three units.

Somewhat like the building of the Elkira units, the sand for bricks was obtained from the bed of the Todd River, and gravel from a creek near Flynns Grave.

Sandy, an Aboriginal man, was employed by Bernie to make the bricks. A loan of £3,000 was obtained from the ANZ Bank to enable construction to start. Sitzler brothers were the builders. In 1963 the Kilgariff family became the sole owners of the property.

[Bernard Francis Kilgariff AM (1923 to 2010) was one of the founders of the Country Liberal Party and served as a member of the Northern Territory Legislative Assembly which included a stint as Deputy Majority Leader. He was elected to the Australian Senate in 1975, and initially sat with the National Country Party until 1979, before sitting with the Liberal Party for the rest of his Federal political career in 1987.]

1964: CATA’s standing among Travel Agents became prominent: Central Australia is now accepted as a Tourist Destination in the industry. There is an estimated 20% yearly increase in visitors to the area. Tourists are usually in the 45 to 60 year age bracket. Facilities provided by CATA are acknowledged as good in the industry. Promotion of Central Australia in general and CATA in particular needs improvement. Both Sydney and Melbourne promotions are lacking.

Between 1961 and 1989 Central Australian Tours Association Pty Ltd and its subsidiary CATA Tours Pty Ltd, both trading and and being promoted as CATA, had started as a group of small local bus operators who built and provided their own chalet accommodation, and two Alice Springs motels.

They became a major tour operator in Central Australia and the Northern Territory, extending into both Northern Western Australia and North Queensland. The company continued to operate after many other operators had ceased to exist.

These included Tuit Tours, Pioneer-Tuit Tours, Pioneer Tours, Ansett Pioneer Tours, Redline Coaches, Sampson’s All Australian Tours, Legion Trailway Tours, Pioneer Trailway Tours and Deluxe Coaches who operated as competitors within the Northern Territory

On December 1, 1989, all of CATA’s operation were absorbed into AAT-Kings Tours.

IMAGE at top: Mt Sonder and Glen Helen homestead, by Albert Namatjira.

Visitor centre location: Getting it right this time?

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Opinion by ALEX NELSON

A month ago, Chief Minister Lia Finocchiaro, along with local ministers Bill Yan and Joshua Burgoyne, signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Alice Springs Town Council to deliver a range of “critical projects”.

A major announcement was the granting of nearly $15m to the town council (itself contributing $5m) for the construction of a new public library, in turn converting the existing building at the Civic Centre to become the base for Tourism Central Australia (TCA) and Visitor Information Centre costing $4.8m.

This decision, on the face of it, makes good sense.

TCA Chief Executive Officer, Danial Rochford, is quoted as being delighted, although quite recently TCA proposed the visitors centre should be at the base of Anzac Hill, next to Hungry Jack’s, and on the site some years ago of the Shell franchise.

Most locals and tourists would be likely to agree: That location is on the Stuart Highway and visitors seeking information would not have to cross a busy road from where they are parking.

Mr Rochford now states the new location would alleviate the major problem of lack of parking at the current site, and place it in close proximity to the Greyhound bus parking bays across the road in Gregory Terrace (for which TCA is the exclusive agent in Alice Springs) and to the caravan and bus park on the river side of Leichhardt Terrace directly opposite TCA’s imminent new home.

What’s missing from all the hoopla over this great decision is that the TCA is moving back next door to where it was once located (as the Central Australian Tourism Industry Association) in a building converted for that purpose in Gregory Terrace just over a quarter century ago.

(The ownership of the former Visitor Information Centre was simultaneously transferred from the NT Government to the town council last month, too).

Jalistan House, new visitor centre and TCA office, August 2013.

Not only that, but it’s in the same general vicinity for a Visitor Centre recommended by the landmark Tourism Plan for Central Australia study (the “HKF Report”) published in 1969.

All of this maintains the peculiar fly-in-a-bottle shifts of tourism bureau and visitor centre locations in Alice Springs since the 1960s, especially in the vicinity of the Parsons Street and Todd Mall/street intersection in the CBD.

This history was outlined in my article published in 2013, marking the occasion of the TCA’s new base in Jalistan House on the corner of Todd Mall and Parsons Street.

In keeping with this pattern, Tourism NT (a Division of the Department of Tourism and Hospitality) is located diagonally opposite on the upper level of Alice Plaza, directly above where a shop front for the NT Government Tourist Bureau was opened in the brand-new plaza in 1987!

It’s worth looking at the original recommendation for a Visitor Centre on Colacag Park (now the Civic Centre) in the HKF Report of 1969.

The report states: “Alice Springs is the logical location for a major visitor centre facility because of its position as both the destination point for visitors from afar and the departure point for travel to places of interest in The Centre.

“The Visitor Centre should provide all the visitors’ information needs and will be the starting point for a vacation in The Centre and such a facility will become a destination area in itself. The Visitor Centre will contain the Northern Territory Tourist Bureau, an outback museum, theatre, art and craft gallery, library, amphitheatre, landscaped grounds, ample parking and public toilets.

“The key to the success of the Visitor Centre will be its information and interpretive functions – the Tourist Bureau and the Outback Museum.

“The Tourist Bureau will supply travel information and the museum will provide the visitor an opportunity to develop an understanding of The Centre and its people.

“The Visitor Centre, especially the Tourist Bureau, museum and satellite information centres, should have a multi-lingual capability. The appeal of this area is worldwide and provision for the non-English speaking visitor must be made.” (Visitor Plan for Alice, HKF Report, 1969).

The accompanying photo depicted the then empty corner of Colacag Park at the intersection of Todd Street and Gregory Terrace – this was a decade before the construction of the Alice Springs Town Council complex.

This corner is now the Gathering Garden, opened in 2009 – some 40 years later – commemorating the varied history of today’s Civic Centre block.

Two date palms are prominent in the middle of Colacag Park – they’re still there, over twice as high, in the lawns of the Civic Centre.

They were planted in 1916 by Walter Smith (the “Man from Arltunga”, whose biography was published by the late Dick Kimber in 1986) in the extensive gardens of Afghan cameleer Charlie Sadadeen – the last surviving remnant of the site’s early settled history.

Also visible to the photo’s left edge is a small building, at the time just over a decade old, which was officially opened by the Minister for Territories, Paul Hasluck MP, in 1958.

This was officially the “Queen Elizabeth II Memorial Welfare Centre”, more commonly called the Infant Welfare Clinic: “It will be recalled that on the occasion of the Royal visit, Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, expressed a wish that any memento of the visit should take the form of a fund to be devoted to the welfare of the mothers and children of Australia [this was the Queen’s visit to Australia in 1954].

“From funds raised by a local committee from Alice Springs, together with a contribution by the Commonwealth Government, the Memorial Welfare Centre building was completed and the Minister has consented to unveil a plaque commemorating the occasion at a ceremony which will take place at 8pm, on April 23, 1958” (Centralian Advocate, 18/04/58).

Jalistan House, the new TCA office in June 2013 during north Todd St reconstruction – one of the many.

The official opening occurred in the middle of a political crisis, as every elected member of the NT Legislative Council had resigned en masse in protest at the lack of constitutional development of the NT.

The revolt was led by the Member for Alice Springs, Neil Hargrave, who along with other prominent local leaders staged a noisy protest meeting of some 200 residents on that corner when Hasluck was doing the honours for the new clinic.

Now long forgotten, this episode prompted significant reforms in the early 1960s – and opened the way for Bernie Kilgariff’s long political career.

The Infant Welfare Clinic operated for many years (I was one of its clients!) but was eventually superseded by other services and closed.

In the mid 1990s, the Central Australian Tourism Industry Association was looking for new digs and set its sights on the old clinic in Gregory Terrace.

Prominent member Libby Prell explained the process in a letter to the editor: “CATIA approached the Minister for Lands in November 1995, expressing an interest in the vacant building as a possible Visitor Information Centre and CATIA office.

“A full submission was subsequently prepared. In late 1996, an offer was made of a Crown Lease on the block”.

In an extraordinary echo of the infant clinic’s original funding, Libby Prell’s letter continued: “CATIA is self-funding $260,000 on the building alterations and extensions, with an additional $260,000 being a Federal Tourism Regional Development Grant. A total of $520,000 will be spent on the building.

“Tangentyere Design has created a building which will be endemic to Central Australia, which is contemporary and inspirational and has integrity and not be ostentatious.

“To that end the building will be colour-rendered in its entirety, will have a feature ’tilting’ sandstone wall on the west and north aspects.

“Landscaping is an integral part of the project. CATIA and Tangentyere Design have always had a focus that the building is a public utility and seen to be part of the family of Town Council buildings” (Centralian Advocate, 4/11/97).

Construction work had already commenced in September 1997: “Located in front of the Town Council chambers on Gregory Terrace, the building was designed by Tangentyere Design and is being built by Probuild.

Public library, Gregory Tce view, August 2013.

“The NT Government has leased the land and buildings to Central Australian Tourism on a peppercorn lease for up to 20 years” (Centralian Advocate, 12/09/97).

Simultaneously, the town council was considering new plans to its major upgrading of Leichhardt Terrace already underway north of Gregory Terrace: “The NT Government has agreed to give an extra $80,000 toward the plan to include the section of Leichhardt Terrace between Gregory and Stott Terraces in the reconstruction. If adopted, it will take the bill of the total Leichhardt Terrace reconstruction to $800,000.

“The plan allows for a passenger drop-off zone for up to five buses next to the council grounds [Gregory Terrace].

“Across the road next to the Todd River, there is space for coach parking … it is hoped this will take the clutter of traffic, currently a daily occurrence in Gregory Terrace, around the corner into Leichhardt Terrace where there is more space.

“And it would not remove tourists from the Todd Mall retail area or the new CATIA building on Gregory Terrace.

“Council’s Director of Planning, Eugene Barry, said all relevant NT Government Departments on the Urban Beautification Steering Committee had agreed to the proposition” (Centralian Advocate, 14/11/97).

Thus the scene was set during 1998 – the new CATIA Visitor Information Centre and tour bus parking bays in Gregory Terrace, and coach and caravan parking across Leichhardt Terrace opposite the public library.

Yet, well within the 20-year period of a peppercorn rent for the reconstructed building in Gregory Terrace, Tourism Central Australia abandoned the lease in favour of moving into Jalistan House in 2013.

This building, previously long occupied by Australian Airlines and QANTAS, had been empty for several years (a restaurant briefly operated there).

Since 2013, the previous custom-rebuilt Visitor Information Centre in Gregory Terrace (at left) has in turn languished as an empty building, often targeted by vandals.

The TCA’s move to Jalistan House coincided with another major town council road building project, this time the re-opening of the north end of Todd Mall to traffic and reconstruction of part of Parsons Street in 2012-13, costing $5m, in a vain attempt to revitalise the north end of the town centre.

The TCA clearly shot itself in the foot with this move – not only paying rent in new premises several years earlier than it needed to but also isolated from easy access to vehicular traffic.

So now, over a decade later, a bit of common sense has prevailed with the TCA, town council and the NT Government returning back to the future with the imminent relocation of the Tourism Information Centre returning to the vicinity of where it was first proposed to go 56 years ago.

PHOTO at top: Colacag Park, today’s Civic Centre site, at the intersection of Todd Street and Gregory Terrace, in 1969. That was a decade before the construction of the Alice Springs Town Council complex on that site. This corner is now the Gathering Garden, opened in 2009.

The first 100 days: Cracking down on dumpers

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Cracking down on illegal dumping in Alice Springs is among the initiatives introduced by the CLP Government during its first 100 days, according to a media announcement.

Reducing Crime package – Declan’s Law, ram raids, post and boat, nuisance public drinking, minimum sentencing for assaults on workers.

Increased police presence – More officers in uniform and on the streets.

Territory Coordinator – Reforming our economy by making the Territory a more competitive place to invest.

HomeGrown Territory grants – Up to $50,000 to build a new home and $10,000 to buy an existing home for First Home buyers.

Payroll tax – Removing payroll tax for small businesses with less than $2.5m turnover.

Free swimming lessons – For all primary school students in years 1 to 6.

ATSIAGA Master Plan – Saved ANZAC Oval and progress the Aboriginal Torres Strait Islander Art Gallery.

School Attendance Officers – To get kids to school and hold parents accountable.

MVR changes – Frozen registration fees, one-year free driver’s licences, 3-year trailer registration.

Corrections Master Plan – Fixing Labor’s Corrections crisis and getting prisoners out of watch houses.

Meningococcal B vaccine rollout.

New infrastructure projects in Alice Springs – $27m for sport, lifestyle, cultural, tourism and community infrastructure.

Re-established Asian Relations portfolio – Signed MOU with Indonesia to strengthen collaboration on critical mineral and strategic material supply chains.

Machinery of Government changes – For an agile public service focussed on reducing crime, rebuilding the coming and restoring our lifestyle.

Pharmacy reforms – increasing the services available at the chemist for cheaper and quicker access to healthcare.

Expanded hunting reserves – Increased areas for hunting with consistent bag limits.

Security screens for all bus drivers.

Solar battery scheme – Up to $12,000 grants.

Fines and Penalties – Passed new laws to recover millions in unpaid fines.

Legal Aid – Fixed longstanding funding issues by providing an extra $5.2m to continue legal services for quicker access to justice for victims.

Minimum floor price – Introduced legislation to remove minimum unit price for alcohol.

Approvals Fast Track Taskforce – Reforming regulatory processes and reducing approvals timeframes.

Contributed.

Booze floor price ends, fight starts

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

The new buzzword “minoritarian governing” describes minorities getting their way by making a lot of noise or grasping media attention, disproportionate to their place in the community.

Right now it’s firing up the pseudo debate about the alcohol floor price, a measure assuming that people will drink less if they have to pay more, which the new CLP government is knocking on the head.

The government says the Minimum Unit Price (MUP) of $1.30 per standard drink, introduced by Labor in 2018, has not been working.

The government quotes statistics while opponents to the change do not. They refer to the “devastating consequences of alcohol harms in our communities”.

Hospitality Minister Marie-Clare Boothby said in a media release: “The alcohol floor price is a blunt, ineffective tool that fails to address the complexity of alcohol-related harm in the NT.

“Alcohol-related assaults have increased by 38% in the past eight years under Labor.

“People aren’t drinking less; they have changed what they drink, from wine boxes to stronger spirits in glass bottles – which then can be used as weapons.”

The minister says although wholesale data found a reduction in cask wine sales, there is a direct increase of 17% in consumption of hard spirits and 36% of mixed spirits.

But promoters of the floor price claim there is strong community opposition to its abolition, quoting a letter from the Foundation from Alcohol Research and Education (FARE). It is signed by a little more than 200 people, mostly staff of NGOs, medical professionals and academics.

The Alice Springs People’s Alcohol Action Coalition’s spokesperson John Boffa is quoted: “We know that at this time of year violence escalates, and services are under even more pressure.

“We need to be focusing on preventing harm in any way we can – which is why the floor price on alcohol is so important. It’s proven to be effective in reducing rates of violence.”

But FARE provided a Menzies School of Health Research 2023 study struggling to support these claims. It quotes studies from Scotland, Canada, Wales – commonly regarded as irrelevant to the NT.

The study says in part:

• Central Australian studies demonstrated reductions in ICU admissions and emergency department attendances but the impact of MUP cannot be separated from the impact of other measures introduced at the same time.

• An NT report concluded that it was “unlikely that the MUP materially impacted the use of alternative substances”. Two reports noted the lack of data available to investigate this in detail.

• Two reports found significant declines in the NT overall, but the impact of other interventions cannot be separated outside of the Darwin region as MUP was part of a package of reforms.

There appeared to be no convincing contradiction to the government assertions, nor to the tongue-in-cheek survey “with a limited sample size” by Professor Rolf Gerritsen.

The NT Liquor Commission declined to comment. It even conceals who is sitting on it: Clicking on “Members” on its website leads nowhere.

 

UPDATE Nov 29, 7.50am

Historian Alex Nelson provided the names of the members of the Liquor Commission which he says are published on its website.

The names are: Chairperson Russell Goldflam, deputy chairperson Jodi Truman,
Greg Shanahan – Acting Deputy Chairperson, Prof Phillip Carson, Elizabeth Stephenson, Bernard Dwyer, Katrina Fong Lim, Denys Stedman, Rachael Shanahan and Ebony Abbott-McCormack.

The Alice Springs News tried several times to use the link to the members’ names on commission’s website but did not succeed. Two readers, Vicki Gillick and David Carpenter, also got through (see blow). It’s a mystery!

DIY welfare group puts numbers to its proud record

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

The Ngaanyatjarra Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara Women’s Council is a bit of a mouthful, so just call them NPY and be amazed at its achievements since 1980, spreading across 350,000 square kilometres in the south-west of the NT, the Top End of SA and a big patch of eastern WA.

Over the decades they won a years long battle for alcohol control on their patch, supported their Arrernte sisters fighting a dam in Alice Springs, danced at the Olympic Games, initiated the introduction of cross border justice administration and saved countless lives by being part of the “un-sniffable” low octane fuel campaign.

As the airwaves are full of talking from politicians, activists and coroners, mostly about dollar figures with lots of zeros, Alice Springs based NPY is putting real numbers to its accomplishments in 2024.

4160 hours of Ngangkari healing in hospitals and community: We employed 45 ngangkari and Anangu mental health advocates to support community health and wellbeing, developed 9 new bi-lingual mental health resources and delivered Uti Kulintjaku activities in 11 NPY communities.

581 women supported by the domestic and family violence service: We responded to 5428 calls to our emergency number resulting in 6158 episodes of care to Anangu women experiencing domestic & family violence.

42,370 attendances at youth activities: We delivered 6307 hrs of youth recreation activity to keep young people active, engaged and reaching for the stars.

240 Anangu with a disability supported with their NDIS plan advocacy, NDID appeals and access to social events: 280 Anangu elders were cared for with social support, specialist equipment, respite and transport and 134 carers were supported to give the best care they can to family.

6263 episodes of care given to children and families keeping them healthy and safe: 155 nutrition workshops were delivered to 966 people and we advocated for parents impacted by the Child Protection System 498 times.

451 Tjanpi artists received an income from the sale of their artworks: $438,761 worth of artwork were sold, 13 national exhibitions were presented and 309 artists received skills development workshops in 11 remote communities.

In the year ending June 30, 2023 NPY received $20.8m in grants and $2.1m in other operating receipts.

PHOTO AT TOP: Tjanpi artist Noreen Bronson with woven sculpture. Artists earned close to half a million dollars. Small images: goods for sale. All illustrations from NPY.

Economy to boom, but no answer for domestic violence

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

The Territory economy is picking up and next year it will go gangbusters, according to CDU Adjunct Professor Rolf Gerritsen (portrait at right).

“In the last ABS figures we are the fastest growing economy in Australia, albeit off a low base. Mining projects such as Nolans Bore rare earth (pictured above) and around Tennant Creek are coming on stream.

“The only people who are having difficulties are retail. Online shopping certainly has an effect on it.

“The constraints on the Alice Springs economy are structural – skill shortages. Any business could at least employ another person.

“You can’t find a tradesman in the pub during the day. That’s for sure,” says Prof Gerritsen.

“We need more housing in Central Australia. I don’t know if the extension of Kilgariff (at right) is going to solve that problem.

“Perhaps we need apartments attracting young trades persons and then they decide they want to stay here and move into a house.”

On the downside, hiring more social workers isn’t likely to fix the problems at which government spending of $180m over five years is targeted.

“Domestic Violence is a very serious problem but I suspect that’s what will happen.

“Social workers are useful once the violence has been committed but seem to be less useful to prevent the violence in the first place.

“The police could be more proactive but you know as well as I do, the police are called to an incident, such as someone beating up his missus. The missus agrees to press charges against him but when they get to court she refuses to proceed.

“The police hate domestic violence because it’s a crime where penalties cannot necessarily be enforced.”

Commenting on both major parties agreeing to the funding: “It was me-too policy making on the run during the election campaign” says the Alice-based CDU professor overseeing his final two doctoral students pre-retirement.

According to a media statement Minister for Prevention of Domestic Violence Robyn Cahill will provide a ministerial report on the issue of domestic and family violence.

“The CLP Government will comprehensively review [yesterday’s] Coronial recommendations into the tragic deaths of four Aboriginal women at the hands of their partners,” says Ms Cahill in the release.

“This inquest began 17 months ago, and it is critical we do not rush our response and take the time to work through it and engage with stakeholders.

Judge Elisabeth Armitage who conducted the coronial inquests into the deaths of Miss Yunupiŋu, Ngeygo Ragurrk, Kumarn Rubuntja and Kumanjayi Haywood, handed down 35 recommendations.

The Aboriginal women were killed by their domestic partners. The NT has the highest rate of domestic, family and sexual violence (DFSV) and the highest imprisonment rate in Australia.

“As an immediate response to preventing domestic violence, the ‘Reducing Crime’ package we introduced in the first sittings of Parliament have already been assented into law, which includes a presumption against bail for serious violent offenders.”

The Fines and Penalties (Recovery) Amendment (Validation) Bill 2024, described by Leader of Government Business Steve Edgington as a significant legislative priority, isn’t given much of a chance by Prof Gerritsen.

He expects a great proportion of the debtors would have left the Territory.

And as for the rest? “Stick them in gaol? I presume these are mostly traffic fines.”

Prof Gerritsen, while walking his dogs on the eastern bank of the Todd past Spencer Hill each morning, has opportunity for an alcohol survey “with a limited sample size”.

It is “where people camp over night and get on the piss”.

Mr Edington says in the statement about the minimum floor price which will be axed: “It has not delivered tangible benefits because it has driven people to higher content alcohol products such as spirits, and that is why we are getting rid of it.”

Prof Gerritsen says in his morning walks “I see a Whiskey or a Bourbon bottle every day, I see beer cans nearly every day. I did note a Bacardi bottle the other day and I thought, there’s some sophisticated drinking here.”

Prof Gerritsen says every so often he also finds goonbags – casks – an indication that smuggling of prohibited alcohol from Darwin or Port Augusta is taking place.

As for the drinkers Mr Edington suggests he has the answer: “We’ve already passed public nuisance drinking laws, which gives our police stronger powers to fine, charge, and arrest offenders in prohibited areas while ensuring those individuals are issued a seven-day Banned Drinker Order.”

Prof Gerritsen says the relocation of the art gallery is “a sop to the business owners in the top end of the mall so you can look up the mall and see the gallery at the end of it”.

He says the building should have been put in the Desert Knowledge Precinct: “Art is one aspect of Indigenous culture.

“There are already galleries in the town. They call them art shops.”

“The precinct allows you to accommodate a suite of tourist opportunities, showing them how Aboriginal people used the country. Having cultural events.

“That would be a world class attraction.”

The coronial report’s 35 recommendations include creating a Domestic, Family and Sexual Violence Interagency Coordination and Reform Office (DFSV-ICRO); whole-of-government coordination mechanism; peak body; workforce planning; interpreter service; alcohol intervention strategy involving victim survivors (including children) as well as perpetrators; multi-agency protection service; police command specialist; culturally appropriate court; trauma informed, mediation and peacekeeping for family and community violence; men’s prison-based behaviour programs and counselling; DFSV training for clubs and pubs.

Gallery on half the Anzac oval carpark

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UPDATED ERWIN CHLANDA reports

The Aboriginal art gallery, now known as ATSIAGA, will be placed on about half of the present Anzac Oval car park in Wills Terrace.

ATSIAGA stands for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Gallery of Australia, suggesting the plan still has ambitions for national status.

It will be surrounded by “current and additional” car parking at the western side, the existing Anzac Oval, and a small open space adjoining the Over 50 premises.

There will be additional car parking where the old high school was demolished, to the north of the oval.

This was announced by Chief Minister Lia Finocchiaro this morning.

“We have listened to the people of Alice Springs,” she says in a media announcement.

However there was no mention of the assertive campaign by traditional custodians who want the gallery to be built south of The Gap.

Ms Finocchiaro announced that design and scale of the gallery will be revised to a three-storey 4,000sqm building to ensure it fits within the wider Masterplan revealed this morning.

“This will be delivered to a budget of $149 million.

“The CLP will reinstate Anzac Oval as a rugby field with restoration works to commence and be complete in time for the rugby season in February 2025.”

PLAN AT TOP: The words “Anzac Hill” were added by the Alice Springs News to the government-supplied image.

UPDATED November 23, 2024 10am

The Alice Springs News understands that the revised scope and scale of the gallery appropriately reflects what realistically can be delivered within the allocated budget of $149m. The amount set aside for the initially planned 7000sqm was $150m.

We understand the NT construction company Sitzler are currently completing Stage 1 of the managing contractor contract and have been assisting with the current Master Plan and associated investigative works.

Sitzler was in July awarded the tender to construct the gallery.

Any future tenders are expected to be announced as the project progresses.

Bringing health care to The Rock

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She calls it “the best commute in the world,” 30 minutes from Yulara through the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, past The Rock to Mutitjulu.

That’s where the former Sydney sider is the Australian College of Rural and Remote Medicine (ACRRM) registrar.

At age 15 Sophie Collins took part in a cultural exchange program between her urban high school and the community. She became immersed in the Pitjantjatjara language and cultural traditions of the Anangu.

“It was my first time leaving the city,” she recalls. “I remember sitting around the fire, watching the women make damper, sharing their stories so generously. It stayed with me.”

After studying medicine at the University of Newcastle she took placements in Aboriginal community-controlled clinics in Newcastle and Darwin before deciding on internship in Alice Springs, the nearest hospital to Mutitjulu. She undertook her Advanced Skills Training in Emergency Medicine.  

“Working in the hospital, especially in the emergency department, I was constantly witnessing the end result of chronic diseases,” Sophie says.

“For me this really underlined the importance of high-quality primary healthcare.”  

In addition to her interest in preventative medicine, Sophie says she is particularly passionate about addressing health inequities through “culturally safe, community-led care.   

“It’s really important to empower communities to improve their own health outcomes,” she says.

“Aboriginal Community-Controlled Health Services like Central Australian Aboriginal Congress play an essential role.

“It’s a privilege to work for a strong Aboriginal organisation with a proud history of advocacy and activism.”  

Working in Mutitjulu, a community of about 400 people, does come with challenges. The clinic’s resources are limited. Blood tests are sent as far as Perth for analysis, and results can take days to return.

Sophie is undergoing ultrasound training to improve diagnostic capabilities locally, as most patients have to travel almost 500km to Alice Springs to get an x-ray.

“One of the things I love most is the ability for people to just drop in without an appointment,” she says. “It’s all about building relationships, understanding who’s connected to who, and creating a sense of trust. 

“There is a lot of opportunistic care, where an Aunty might bring a niece, and we end up having a conversation about both their health concerns and needs. 

“The slower pace in Mutitjulu allows for more meaningful interactions and I enjoy having a good yarn with the people who come to the clinic. 

“It really is a lot of fun, and everyone living and working here has a great sense of humour and warmth.” 

In her free time, Sophie enjoys the natural beauty of the region.

“I love spending time in the National Park, walking around Uluru, watching sunsets and moonrises.”

She is particularly proud of improving her Pitjantjatjara language skills, including at a recent two-week summer school learning from Anangu tutors.  

“It’s been a 14-year journey from my first visit as a student to now.

“I’m really grateful that ACRRM and Congress have made it possible for me to return and contribute to healthcare in this community. “It is amazing work, and I love it.”  

Contributed by the Australian College of Rural and Remote Medicine.

Nothing to see here

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UPDATED  ERWIN CHLANDA reports

A way of dealing with youth crime has finally been found: Pretending it doesn’t exist.

“Around 7pm on Monday 14 October, the Joint Emergency Services Communication Centre received reports of a group of youths allegedly throwing rocks at a group of people near Meyers Hill in Alice Springs. The offenders fled the scene prior to police arrival.”

The Alice Springs News received this statement from the police this morning, a month and five days after the alleged attack and only after we had made numerous requests for information.

There is no mention of the events in the online archive of police media releases. We asked the police this morning whether they have published the events and if not, why not. We will update this report if and when we get a reply.

We pressed for information about the issue because we consider it to be in the extreme public interest.

Why? Information we received is that the alleged victims were participants in the Masters Games, guests in our town and likely to share their frightening experience with their friends around the country and the games movement generally.

It’s the kind of offence that is sending the tourism industry to the bottom.

We understand all or most of the visitors were hit that evening and at least one was taken to the hospital.

The crime scene is a prime tourist spot, accessible from the Olive Pink Botanical Gardens and a short walk up the hill from the coffee shop there.

We asked the Gardens management for information but received none.

The NT Major Events Company, which organises the games, emailed yesterday: “As the incident did not occur at an Alice Springs Masters Games venue, we are not in a position to comment.”

Tourism Central Australia had not been notified about the alleged attack.

NOTE: The police statement today included this request: “Investigations are ongoing and police urge anyone with information to call 131 444 and quote NTP24000103598.”

IMAGE: Google Earth.

 

UPDATE 6.15pm

Brett Lewis, Police Media Liaison Officer, provided this statement this afternoon:

“Unidentified offenders have allegedly thrown rocks at a group walking in the area, resulting in two women being conveyed to hospital for assessment.

“We are unable to confirm further details relating to the victims for privacy reasons.

“In regards to release of the information:

A full list of reportable crime incidents by month in Alice Springs is contained here.

If information falls within one or more of the following categories, it can be considered for public release:

• Timely, significant events of likely public interest;

• Requirement for public assistance or witnesses where members in charge believe there is a real likelihood media can assist with this part of their investigation;

• Serious incidents such as robbery, serious assault, fatal motor vehicle crashes;

• Proactive, positive PFES stories of likely public interest;

• Strategic priorities with key educational messages such as road safety – drink drivers caught;

• Significant arrests, charges and court dates; and

• Public safety concerns.

The Media Unit will endeavour to provide a response to all requests for information from media. Such responses may be limited to an explanation of why further information cannot be disclosed at the time of the request itself.

[ED – “A full list of reportable crime incidents by month” contains the number of incidents, not their details.]

Sunshine asset on the slide, slowly

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

Looking up into the sky and seeing yet another lot of clouds may raise the spectre of Alice losing its place as the nation’s sunniest place.

We have 235.6 clear days, ahead of Port Headland with 232.4 and Coober Pedy 223.2.

But is it all coming to an end? Looking back as far as 1990 the stats suggest something is happening.

The Bureau of Metereology (BOM) logs the amount of sunlight that shines on the Alice Springs airport.

It’s called “global solar exposure” which is the total amount of solar energy falling on a horizontal surface, measured in megajoules per square metre.

Don’t let your eyes glazes over. Think of MJm2s as potatoes and just compare the numbers.

The average over all the 28 years is 21.8, according to BOM.

Between 2020 and 2023 the respective annual averages were 21.5, 21.6, 20.8 and 21.4, a drop of sunshine of 1.4%, 1%, 4.6% and 1.2%.

The “all years” January figure is 26.9. Except for 2021 (27.3) in all other recent five years we were having less sunshine – 26.2, 25.1, 23.7 and 26 this year.

We were doing better in the winter. The “all years” July number is 15.8 while we were getting more than that in three of the five Julys since 2020.

It’s worth keeping an eye on the sky if the NT wants to pursue its enormous opportunities as a solar power provider.

PHOTO: This morning near the airport.

Pokies gamblers in NT casinos blew more than $80m in 2023/24

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

Poker machine gamblers in the two NT casinos lost more than $80m in the 2023/24 financial year, the exact figure being $80,089,252.

A break-down between the Darwin Mindil Beach and the Alice Springs Lasseter casinos was not available, but as of June 30, 2024 the former had 627 gaming machines and there were 420 in Alice.

At the same time there were four “community gaming venues” in Central Australia operating a total of 150 machines.

The combined losses in these Alice Springs venues were nearly $15m in 2023/24, namely $14,825,228. 

There is no cap on the number of gaming machines operating in NT casinos.

This information comes from a Department of Tourism and Hospitality spokesperson in response to questions from the Alice Springs News.

The issue of poker machines moved into the forefront of public debate when the News revealed that Mayor Matt Paterson, without consent from the council, wrote to the Commonwealth Bank “in support of Iris Capital and its continued investment into our town”.

Iris Capital owns the Lasseter casino.

The council has referred the issue to ICAC for the investigation of the letter allegedly leaked.

And now, a movie about The Centre

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

The makers of the movie Finding Miss Almond, which is set mostly in Alice Springs, is seeking funding from Screen Territory under the Production Attraction Incentive Program which invested $1.3m in the Netflix series Territory whose location is the Top End.

Producer Mark Smith says: “I will ensure as many dollars as possible are spent in The Centre.”

He is launching today a 26-minute documentary about the film’s subject, the history of the now famous group of Aboriginal boys, mostly from The Centre, who were sent to Adelaide for further education at St Francis House under the care of Isabel Almond and Percy Smith, the founding Anglican rector of Alice Springs in 1933.

Sixty-six boys were at St Francis House over its life from 1946 to 1960, many of them achieving national careers in politics, administration and sport.

John Moriarty, the first Indigenous socceroo, is known for his Qantas Aboriginal flying art series.

Historian and academic Gordon Briscoe was the first Indigenous person to stand for Parliament and to achieve a PhD at the Australian National University.

Charles Perkins was a passionate civil rights activist and Commonwealth Department Secretary. Vincent Copley played for Fitzroy in the VFL.

Others were three-time Port Adelaide Football Club premiership player Richie Bray, sprinter and Port Adelaide footballer Ken Hampton, 200 game Central Districts SANFL footballer Sonny Morey, Jim Foster who played rugby in England and Wally McArthur who also played rugby in England after he missed out on Olympic selection, on racist grounds.

Seven of the St Francis boys have been recognised by Queen Elizabeth II with the Order of Australia.

Finding Miss Almond is being developed in partnership with Los Angeles and Adelaide based movie director Mark Webber who has had success at international film festivals, including Robert Redford’s Sundance Film Festival in Utah. He also has his own special connection to Australia, as he is married to actress Teresa Palmer, who is from Adelaide.

Mr Webber’s recent acting work includes the Netflix action blockbuster Trigger Warning, released in June, in which he stars alongside Jessica Alba.

PHOTO: Footballer Richie Bray was one of the St Francis House high achievers from The Centre who make up the story of Finding Miss Almond.

 

Getting killed in the Territory: Netflix series

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

In the opening sequence we’re told by the central character, played by Anna Torv: “Everything up here is trying to kill you.”

Not long after we see an already injured man getting mauled to death by a pack of feral dogs.

Subsequently, there is a funeral for him at which, incredibly, business haggling is going on with the dead man’s family, an uninvited competitor turns up, drunk, and a brawl breaks out.

That’s the start of the Netflix series Territory into which the NT Government has sunk $1.3m of taxpayers’ money and on the back of which our tourism promoters want to boost the industry, currently running at half its normal speed.

“The opening scene of Territory, depicting the wildness and unforgiving beauty of the NT outback, is likely to intrigue rather than deter potential visitors,” explains the government in a statement yesterday, after a request for comment from the Alice Springs News.

“It reinforces the NT as a place of raw adventure and natural wonder. This is exactly what draws adventure tourists who want a unique destination filled with dramatic landscapes and untamed nature.”

The elite of the Territory’s cattle raising community is being portrayed as semi-articulate, swearing, brawling, drinking rednecks, hating each other. Does the industry propose to put visitors in touch with people like that?

“The show’s portrayal of the NT pastoral community is an independent, creative choice made by the filmmakers,” says the statement.

“The NT Government had no input or influence on the script or character depictions, as all film content is entirely the filmmakers’ responsibility. What audiences see is fictionalised for dramatic impact.”

Neither the government nor Tourism Central Australia will say whether they consulted with the NT Cattlemen’s Association before putting public money into the production.

The News has invited the association to comment.

Territory joins a proud legacy of NT filmed productions like Jedda, Crocodile Dundee, Top End Wedding, and The Adventures of Priscilla Queen of the Desert, to name a few,” says the statement.

“These films have long inspired global audiences to visit the NT, and now with Netflix’s reach, Territory provides an extraordinary platform to showcase our landscapes and culture worldwide, inviting more people than ever to explore the NT.”

The production resulted “in a direct, audited spend of $6,885,521 into the NT economy over the 10 week filming period,” says the statement.

“This supported local jobs, services, and businesses, demonstrating how such projects can deliver economic benefits while highlighting NT’s unique landscapes.”

The government is not commenting on the fact that the locations are entirely in the Top End – none are in The Centre.

Travel Weekly comments: “For those captivated by the visuals, the show also serves as an inadvertent tourism ad.

“Locations like Bullo River Station, Bamurru Plains and Finniss River Lodge, which feature heavily in the series, offer luxury outback experiences that may tempt many viewers to visit.

Territory is more than a TV show. It’s an invitation to experience the Northern Territory’s raw beauty firsthand.”

The series is available worldwide on Netflix to over 238 million paid members in over 190 countries. It will be interesting to examine whether it attracts visitors, or keeps them away.

PHOTO at top is not part of the showreel.

Anzac Oval and the ill-fated art gallery: Nothing needed to be changed.

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OPINION by ALEX NELSON

Exactly 68 years ago, on Saturday, 17 November 1956, Prince Philip was being shown the sights around Alice Springs.

The Duke of Edinburgh was taking a leisurely trip through the Northern Territory, spending two nights in The Alice, on his way to Melbourne to officially open the 1956 Olympic Games.

He had been to the top of Anzac Hill to view the town, then taken for a grand tour through the streets of the Alice’s first suburb, what we now call the Old Eastside.

The Duke returned to the town centre, taking a hard right opposite the corner of Todd Street and Wills Terrace, which at the time was the main entrance to the Alice Springs Recreational Reserve – better known since the 1960s as Anzac Oval.

While proceeding around the still new oval, there was an impromptu stop as Prince Philip got out to greet a crowd of delighted children who had assembled to catch a glimpse of the Duke in the passing motorcade.

This classic moment was caught on camera (from left: Sandra Mitchell, Elaine Stephens, Valerie Tuncks, Maisie Webb; at rear Thelma Burrows, and Judith Litchfield).

However, greeting the kids wasn’t the reason why Prince Philip was driven around the oval. He was on his way to visit the (still new) Alice Springs Higher Primary School at the top end of the sports field.

What was so special about that school?

The answer lies with a teacher holding a unique distinction in the Alice’s history.

She’s the confident woman in the accompanying photo, Mary “Molly” Healy, the godmother holding a newborn baby after his baptism in mid 1963.

A decade earlier, as Miss Molly Ferguson, she was the first permanent teacher appointed to the School of the Air.

Begun in 1951, the first in the world, the School of the Air was initially based at the public school in Hartley Street under founding teacher Adelaide Miethke.

Molly Ferguson took over as team leader in 1953 and was the sole teacher in 1954 when she oversaw the relocation of the School of the Air to the just completed Alice Springs Higher Primary School at the north end of the Recreation Reserve.

The new site included a purpose-built studio and viewing area, quickly becoming a tourist attraction for the town.

The School of the Air was world-renowned, and that’s the reason for Prince Philip’s visit to the school building at Anzac Oval in 1956.

The School of the Air remained there until 1968 when it moved to the Royal Flying Doctor base in Stuart Terrace, and finally to its current site in the new suburb of Braitling in 1976.

Wherever the School of the Air was located, it is a popular tourist attraction.

In March 1983, of course, it was visited by royalty again – this time by Prince Charles and Princess Diana; and again in March 2000, when Queen Elizabeth returned to the Alice.

In 1961, the Alice Springs Higher Primary School was changed to become the Alice Springs High School, the town’s first secondary school.

After 1972, the campus became the Community College of Central Australia and finally reverted to being a secondary school again in 1986, renamed the Anzac Hill High School, until it closed at the end of 2009.

Notwithstanding the old school buildings remained in very good condition and were of major heritage value to Alice Springs, the Gunner Labor government demolished the campus in late 2019 to make way as its preferred site for the National Aboriginal Art Gallery (now ATSIAGA).

The demolition alone cost the taxpayer in excess of $2.5m, and for what exactly?

Yet another Labor-induced blank space in the middle of town, just like the former Aboriginal Art and Culture Centre that used to exist opposite the Civic Centre (winning national and international awards in the late 1990s) but demolished in 2004, for example.

Why couldn’t the old school have been repurposed, at least in part for the return of the School of the Air, just as it had been based there from 1954 to 1968?

It would have been a much simpler, quicker, far less costly and controversial option than the ill-fated national indigenous art gallery that now looks uncertain it will proceed at all.

And we would already have tourists streaming to the north end of the town’s centre because of it.

Unfortunately, there is a long track record of profoundly ill-conceived and managed major projects in Alice Springs – a veritable herd of white elephants that cost the NT dearly – and the ATSIAGA is just the latest iteration of a very sorry saga.

To the extent that Alice Springs manages to muddle along, recent history shows it’s not because of many (not all) of our community’s leaders but rather in spite of them.

I lament the incessant idiocy of too many people in control of our public affairs who clearly should not have been.

However, 61 years after that infant’s photo was taken held in the arms of Molly Healy, I continue to persevere in the hope that eventually we will start to get things right for Alice Springs and The Centre.

Council takes leaking of Mayor letter to ICAC

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UPDATED ERWIN CHLANDA reports

The town council held a secret meeting at 5pm yesterday to discuss a letter from Mayor Matt Paterson to the Commonwealth Bank, asking it to support the major owner of poker machines in Alice Springs, Iris Capital.

The Alice Springs News published an exclusive report about that letter last Friday.

The report contained two images of the letter and it is reproduced in full today (at right). The council yesterday decided to keep the leaked letter “in confidential”.

The News is not disclosing the source of the letter and no source was revealed at the meeting.

The News understands the council decided to make a complaint to the Independent Commissioner Against Corruption (ICAC).

Discussion centred around making an example of people not respecting the council’s often excessive reliance on confidentiality, and that the source may have been an elected member, a council staff or someone outside the council.

Former Deputy Mayor Eli Melky (pictured) said today: “The key element is trust and when confidentiality is breached then trust is breached. That leads to a difficult work environment.”

The News expects to receive information from the government about the number of pokies in the Iris-owned casino and how much a year people are losing on pokies in Alice Springs.

There is much debate about the impact of poker machines on the community of Alice Springs, including a comment by RAINER CHLANDA.

Yellow rabbit faces challenge

5

By ERWIN CHLANDA

The silly yellow rabbit at one end of the lane between the Supreme Court building and the post office now has competition at the other.

This creation, similar in height but vastly more impressive and thought provoking, appeared over the weekend, bolted to the ground.

Its components are car parts and some can be moved.

It’s somewhat reminiscent of Sidney Nolan’s Ned Kelly paintings except they are celebrating a bush ranger while this one, a seeming Robocop, honours our police – or does it?

UPDATE November 14.

A council spokesman said today: “As it was erected on Council land without a permit, it has been designated for removal. I am not sure on the timeline.”

Pokies operator gets Mayor’s discreet support

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

Mayor Matt Paterson, without the consent of the council, emailed the Commonwealth Bank in support of the town’s biggest owner of poker machines, Iris Capital.

The email is on Office of the Mayor letterhead and addressed to the bank’s Relationship Executive, Major Client Group.

Iris owns the Todd Tavern and Gapview hotels and the Casino.

Mayor Paterson reacted angrily when the Alice Springs News interviewed him, demanded to be told how we obtained the letter, which we declined, and said he would “refer it to ICAC”.

The Mayor said: “I don’t need approval for every letter I send.

“I’m allowed to send a letter from my office without the approval of the council. I can’t say council endorsed something, but I can have an opinion as any elected member can.

“They are allowed to make submissions, as does the Deputy Mayor or all councillors.”

Mayor Paterson says in the email: “The proposed development and expansion of the Lasseter’s complex represents a major investment … and helps satisfy some of the accommodation capacity challenges we experience during major events and the peak tourist season.

“The proposed new day care centre and creche … will be a much needed addition for working families.”

Mayor Paterson does not mention pokies in his email.

As casino manager Craig Jervis declined to comment it was not possible to find out how much the projects have progressed since the email was sent on January 22, 2024.

Speaking with the News Mayor Paterson said pokies are “a legal product. I don’t play pokies but I played them before”.

NEWS: Are there sections of the community that are adversely affected by pokies in Alice Springs?

MAYOR: I think there are people in every community who are adversely affected by poker machines.

NEWS: How many poker machines does Iris Capital own in Alice Springs?

MAYOR: Ah. So here you go. If you call out that one business I will not do a story with you. I’m happy to talk about pokies in Alice Springs.

NEWS: To my knowledge Iris are the biggest owners of pokies in Alice Springs.

Mayor Paterson terminated the interview.

The NT has 2,195 poker machines, 1190 in clubs and hotels and 1005 in casinos.

The minimum return to players (RTP) is 85% in clubs and 88% in casinos. Pokies in the NT casinos are governed by legislation separate to those in clubs and pubs.

 

UPDATE November 9, 2024, 7.30am

The Alice Springs News was not able to obtain statistics reported last year: “Since purchasing Lasseters Casino in Alice Springs in 2021, Iris Capital has added almost 150 pokies to the venue, bringing the total number of machines there to 400.”

There is no limit on the number of pokies the casino can instal. The losses by patrons are secret.

A government media release on June 6, 2023, announces lowering the gaming machine cap to 1659 in venues other than the casinos.

Film questions Pine Gap as Trump wins

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

It’s a time of major events: Donald Trump has again been elected President of the USA and its biggest foreign spy base Pine Gap features in the movie Twilight Time to be screened in Alice Springs on Saturday.

For decades “the base” has been described as a prime nuclear target. Does that worry the town? Apparently not.

The council’s policy dates back to 1987 and today still states:

“Policy No. 111: Council supports the retention of the Australian / American Joint Defence Facility Pine Gap, and acknowledges the importance of this Facility for the defence of Australian territory and for the economic and social benefit of Alice Springs.”

Given Mr Trump doesn’t like wars, is it time to shut down the facility?

“Let’s wait and see if the Trump administration will be able to generate world peace, the way he asserts,” says Twilight Time writer director John Hughes.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

His film is about Desmond Ball (1947-2016) (pictured) who was hailed by Jimmy Carter as “the man who saved the world”: He established the fallacy of the doctrine of “limited” nuclear war.

A senior Australian figure at Pine Gap, in conversation with me, off the record, of course, described Mr Ball as a ratbag.

But from 1984 to 1991 the defence analyst led the ANU’s Strategic and Defence Studies Centre.

“He gazed at signals intelligence facilities around the world and worked out what they did and why,” says Mr Hughes in a promotion of the film.

He trekked deep into the sensitive borderlands of Burma and Thailand, advising persecuted minorities on signals intelligence.”

One of first research interviews Mr Hughes shot was with Alice Springs journalist and author, Kieran Finnane, who was working on what was to become her book Peace Crimes (2020, University of Queensland Press).

Mr Hughes, who will appear at the screening with Ms Finnane, cites an Australian newspaper’s take on how Washington sees Australia: The Top End is a launching pad for attacking China. The Centre provides intel and a place for weapons testing. And the south is useful for manufacturing (submarines).

Will Trump make Australia great again?

That is likely to be in the hands of the Pentagon rather than the White House, says Mr Hughes.

The film will show at Araluen at 7pm on Saturday, November 9.

A crocodile in Coober Pedy

Pearls of the Eromanga Sea, Part Two, by MIKE GILLAM

Covering much of inland Australia, the Eromanga Sea provided the building blocks of tourism icons at the Painted Desert, Kanku Breakaways and the town of Coober Pedy. Plesiosaurs and Ichthyosaurs appeared in the fossil record from 100 to 120 Million years ago while reduced basin lakes continued to support lungfish, crocodiles and flocks of Phoenicontius eyrensis, the 1.5m tall Lake Eyre flamingo, until the Pleistocene epoch. A sign at the Umoona Museum, rich in fossil exhibits claims: “There are more different kinds of plesiosaur found at Coober Pedy than anywhere else in Australia.”

Fossil explorers from around the world gravitate to Coober Pedy, an enigmatic, idiosyncratic and at times quixotic community living in the seabed. Some never leave.

Historical writings feature petrified trees and the frequent discovery of marine cephalopods called nautiloids or ammonites. A giant ammonite (pictured), found in 1928 and reproduced as a cast on display at the Umoona Museum, was so large that Police Constable T. Jury “initially mistook the fossil for an old car tyre”.

While miners can be intensely secretive about their opal successes, a few reach eagerly for a water filled jar packed with wondrous opalized mussel shells, bivalves and belemnite pipes. This is their superannuation or a house deposit for their children.

In an unfortunate disconnect between Coober Pedy miners and the protectors of Australia’s palaeontological treasures, opalised fossils may be subject to heritage statutes preventing their export. Tragically, I’ve been told that larger and potentially significant fossils may be broken up into small parcels by miners wanting to optimise a financial return in opal.

Conversely some miners are incredibly generous, donating their rare and most valuable finds to public collections as reported by author Rena Briand in a 2012 reprint of her book White Man in a Hole: “Mining for many years, Johnny only found two stones of great value to collectors: one blue in the shape of an orchid, the other every colour of the rainbow in the shape of a fish. He never sold them, but left them to a museum so many people could enjoy looking at them.”

Briand’s observation is supported by my own, of miners who persist with little or no real reward, scraping enough to buy essentials, routinely borrowing from their mates to get by.

Life-long miners were often supported by their wives who provided the financial security of regular employment in tourism and service industries. The altruism of Johnny Kovak, an exceptional miner, contradicts my suspicion that most opal miners are gamblers at heart.

Beyond the mine workings, the varnished stones have been abraded over the aeons by flowing water, wind driven sand and dust. A geological memory, this epic legacy of depositional river flows, persist as pediplains, mud flats, bull shale, or basins that flood rarely. From tiny fragments of buckshot gibber to stone-scapes studded with objects of significant heft, this windswept grandeur inspired the colloquialism of ‘moon-plains’ and has attracted the attention of artists, writers and notably film-makers.

Walking through the heat shimmer curious shapes catch my eye, columns of stone, distinctive striations and rings, reminders of ancient arboreta in the form of petrified trees. Even the ubiquitous bearded dragons appear to be chiselled from rock. Conversely, in my wandering mind, some of the nocturnal wildlife resemble opalized ornaments. Translucent spiders create vertical shafts that may be settled by geckos of porcelain perfection seeking a temperature range that sustains dugout dwelling humans (about 22 to 26 degrees C).

Coober Pedy projects a desert of naked pyramids, rain harvesting gullies and dark voids.

Entrance to Crocodile Harrys’s dugout.

While the destruction of the landscape has created death traps for unwary tourists, it’s also true that miners have provided habitat enhancement for some species. Living amongst people, a community of owls, bats, and earth stained corellas rely on mine shafts to provide nesting sites and respite from the summer heat.

This gaunt and deceptive country also harbours the impossibly delicate thick-tailed gecko, Underwoodisaurus milii, that emerges after dark from beneath boulders, flung onto the windrow by a road builder’s grader. Shuttling back and forth from burrow to sun to shade, diminutive dragons climb onto stones to gain an overview of their horizontal domain. It’s difficult to imagine a predator succeeding but doubtless brown falcons or kestrels are a formidable foe of the cryptic earless dragons and flightless grasshoppers that resemble polished pebbles.

Interleaved with panes of gypsum, deep earth cracks dry out, open, and shut where water collects in shallow basins of heavier clay and these sites include important refugia for rodents and therefore a hunting ground favoured by venomous snakes such as inland taipans. Coober Pedy’s ’moon plain’ is cited as a location for the endangered native plains rat, Pseudomys australis. The “glassy” sheets of gypsum, hydrated calcium sulphate, are formed mainly through the evaporation of sea water and compression.

In a landscape of prevailing flatness, machinery high points are claimed by nesting kestrels, cockatoos and crows. I’m charmed by the story of Brian Underwood, 79, who returned from holidays to discover crows had nested at the very top of his truck mounted elevator. A resourceful engineer, miner and pilot, Brian made an additional spar relocating the nest to one side of the mast, a modification acceptable to the crows. Next he moved the truck a short distance and the crows followed. In time he was able to continue work at various locations around the opal fields and the agreeable crows followed his meanderings year after year.

A place of refuge for hermits and loners, engineers and mechanics, a surprising number of pilots, writers, artists, photographers and fossil aficionados, it comes as no surprise that Coober Pedy can claim a film making history without parallel in Australia.

Author Colin Thiele of Storm Boy fame is less well known for The Fire in the Stone a cross-cultural teen adventure novel from 1974 that inspired the first feature film made in Coober Pedy a decade later. From Mad Max classics of the 1980s there are apparently upwards of 35 feature films, documentaries, children’s classics, mini-series, dramas and reality television survival challenges that owe much to the subterranean society of Coober Pedy. Wikipedia lists just seventeen.

Ivan Sen’s black and white Limbo rises above most in my estimation. The master of gritty locations he captures the essence of town and landscape in a slow dance of bleak subjects conveyed with extraordinary choreography and acting. Subsistence living and moments of great tenderness are elevated by the austerity of the landscape and pulverised mine sites that are never far away. Sen borrows from the true case of a young Aboriginal woman that we know has been murdered, her body vanished by person/s unknown, a cold case that haunts Coober Pedy to this day.

Chris Butler recalls some of the book keeping challenges when she took over management of a service station in the 1970s. Account customers insisted on using nicknames such as Axle Ivan, Peter Rabbit, Machine Gun Joe, The Captain, Crocodile Harry, Long Hair and Short Hair Steve, their real names deemed indecipherable in a land of Smith, Brown and Jones. It’s widely believed that Harry, aka Arvīds Blūmentāls inspired the Hollywood blockbuster Crocodile Dundee but the film more likely borrows from a composite of characters, notably “bushman” and “survivalist” Rod Ansell who died in a shoot-out with Northern Territory police.

In Coober Pedy it’s not unusual to hear stories of desperate flight from communist regimes but Arvīds Blūmentāls was linked to the German SS in a 2017 essay entitled “the hero and the crocodile” by PhD candidate Harry Merritt.

Crocodile Harry makes the headlines in Europe.

At just 17, Arvids joined the Nazi-occupied Latvian forces on the Eastern Front in 1942. According to Merritt, “in 1943 he was transferred to the Latvian Legion … in the German Waffen-SS … the remnants of his unit ended up near Berlin, where in April of 1945, he and some comrades tore off their SS insignia.

“With the help of a Latvian doctor, he removed the Waffen-SS blood group tattoo on his arm and told Allied authorities he had been a forced labourer in Germany, to avoid becoming a POW. Along with about 200 other Latvian Legion veterans, Blūmentāls joined the French Foreign Legion in 1947 and served for several years before coming to Australia.”

Merritt viewed Crocodile Harry, and “morally bankrupt” others, as a fallen hero, a “mercenary adventurer” but the migrant miner saw his war record very differently and the truth probably lies somewhere in the murky middle. In an interview for German Stern magazine Harry is described as an ex Wehrmacht soldier who joined up to fight the Russians in his occupied homeland of Latvia. Merritt concludes: “In his older years, he seems to have settled down a bit, marrying a German singer named Marta and spending his days sculpting” and in numerous discussions with community old timers who knew him well, a great many Coober Pedy women insist he was an absolute gentleman. Harry would march in the Anzac day parade in uniform, his SS association and conscience clearly reconciled. In Latvia “a statue of a crocodile has been erected in his honor” and it must be said that statues tend to attract acts of protest and vitriol.

Most books and articles featuring Coober Pedy seem to focus disproportionately on alpha males, especially extroverted and performative types, more easily rendered in two dimensions. “Larrikin” male escapades were the life-blood of frivolous discourse during the 60s and 70s and the wild, grog soaked reputation of Coober Pedy softened in the late 70s as the gender imbalance slowly began to correct.

Crocodile Harry’s dugout reveals themes of hyper masculinity, of Viking strength and adolescent sexual fantasies that entertained tourists and dominated popular frontier culture in the 1970s.

Harry cultivated the persona of a great womaniser, his dugout decorated with women’s undergarments, and unfortunately this is how he is remembered in popular folklore, much less so for his creativity. Crudely re-cast, Harry’s cultural “style” lives on, spawning a decorating trend that smothers the interiors of most Road Houses with hats and other paraphernalia “contributed” by tourists. It reminds me of the banal graffiti that inundates heritage buildings as so many individuals struggle to be noticed in Melbourne.

Writer Rena Briand first entered this place in 1969, living amongst the white miners for a decade, imbibing the dominant mining culture but also observing the “magic in the otherwise inhospitable desert country surrounding Coober Pedy. We see 20thcentury troglodytes … their drinking bouts, their love-making and their brutal fights. All nationalities seem to be represented at Coober Pedy. There are educated men and illiterate men, crooks, crackpots and vagabonds.”

The back cover of Briand’s White Man in a Hole, first published in 1971, continues in a similar vein: “Violence and robberies are almost a way of life, since Coober Pedy is a well-known haunt for criminals and tribal outcasts. Gambling and prostitution thrive. Men disappear mysteriously. Tribal killings baffle the authorities.” The reputation of Coober Pedy was set in stone and subsequent writers have been inclined to regurgitate tropes of lawlessness and violence ever since.

Swainsona.

Briand’s descriptions of country resonate for me, “serene beauty of the hills never failed to overwhelm. I could hear soft indistinct murmurs from within them … when a sudden storm was roaring it sounded like the voices of a million ancestors wailing and groaning.”

I remain conflicted however by Briand’s revelations about Coober Pedy’s human inhabitants because the great many I know and respect don’t resemble her cast of characters from 50 years ago. The actions of alcoholics are rarely edifying and their recurring juvenile or violent antics dominate a little too strongly and perhaps uncomfortably in her story telling. There’s a fine line separating character and caricature, and that line was comprehensively crossed as Briand and her subjects consumed an ocean of alcohol.

The author’s laudable attempts at cross cultural understanding don’t always stand the test of time. She portrays “poor hygiene” among indigenous people as a cultural legacy of desert nomads without clearly linking the prohibitive costs and scarcity of water in the town.

Mentioning that one Aboriginal man had not bathed for 66 years, Briand trusts the reader to recognise the absurdity of her informant’s claim to know that some-one never bathed, swam in waterholes or not. Her descriptions of offensive and racist behaviours are jarring, and some examples of petty actions by police against sleeping itinerants scarcely believable. The warmth, dignity, industry and sobriety of her photographic subjects contradicts a pervasively harsh narrative and provides critical balance, as do the captions.

For the 2012 reprint of her book Briand writes a thirty years later preface that is quite beautiful in her description of caring for opal miner Johnny Kovak. With a brain tumour that had left him almost blind she describes the still active miners death: “In March 2011, a few days short of his 82nd birthday, Johnny’s pick hit the bottom of an old shaft that had been backfilled, and he was buried in a cascade of rubble up to his neck … unable to breathe, his end probably was mercifully swift … it was the way he wanted to go. He had a horror of being put in a home.”

Chapter 7 “Children of Morpheus” shines in its description of an inspirational artist / teacher and the creative endeavours of his pupils. Chapter 12, “The  Aboriginals” is also worthy, the positive photographs including front cover, less burdened by the human desolation and poverty that sometimes dogs Briand’s writing.

While I personally dislike the focus on sexual depravity and drunken violence I remain in awe of Briand’s courage and searing honesty in writing such a book and returning to Coober Pedy to face the music! Clearly every writer must make choices about the truth and tone of the word pictures they assemble, made difficult by the incredible complexity of towns like Coober Pedy. Multiple truths inhabit every layer, mediate and infuse every issue.

Personally, I did not recognise the town of Briand’s description, the frequent violence, prostitution and prevalence of syphilis that I accept was a reality in her time but also a useful lure to attract an audience. Vestiges of Briand’s Coober Pedy may be found in every frontier town but readers of her landmark book may rest assured, some 50 years later, a culturally richer and gentler community overlays the old.

Zebra stone carving by Dave Davison.

Skirting around worn out cliches and instead illuminating elements so often overlooked, I feel compelled to contribute to some kind of identity reset for this remarkable town. I hope to write something that honours the lives of contemporary residents while informing, shaping and perhaps softening the skewed perceptions of outsiders. White Man in a Hole captures a frontier opal mining town during a crazy, often repugnant and intensely misogynistic era. High journalistic values of this book aside, I’m uncertain it would pass today’s cultural and morality standards and ever find a publisher.

From the 1970’s Coober Pedy was the culinary capital of inland Australia, an unofficial title it held for several decades. The Italian club was always packed. Nobody was speaking English until my immediate circle would graciously include me in their conversation. From a phenomenal Greek Taverna Restaurant operated by the Kiossos family to the fabulous roof top Umberto’s restaurant that served toffee nest deserts.

Around the corner, a patisserie that eclipsed any facsimile I’ve ever encountered. Roland Weber established his Last Resort Cafe above the legendary Underground Bookshop created in the early 1980s by Peter Caust and the two friends formed a complementary tourism experience without peer. Regretfully, both original owners moved on and while the Underground bookshop persisted for a time it did grind to a halt a few years back. The town was still home to 48 nationalities in 1971 when Peter Caust was involved in the population census.

For a town dogged by local Government scandals and struggling financially, I’m struck by the concern of the people for all sentient life, both wild and domesticated. In my experience islands of kindness exist in the most impoverished and desperate communities and in this regard Coober Pedy is a rare sanctuary for the lost and vulnerable.

The community of Umoona is home to celebrated painters whose work is widely exhibited and may be viewed at the newly opened art centre. Unsurprisingly, a number of miners turn to sculpture, crafts and painting to counterbalance the physical and economic demands of mining.

Community leader, painter and miner of more than fifty years, George Cooley, aged 71, bridges the gap between opal mining and the indigenous artists of Umoona. From the Kanku-Breakaways to the “Painted Desert” Cooley’s sun drenched palette knife and broad brush landscapes portray a pristine view of country, of sharp textures, light and shade, of reverent quiet and stillness.

Umoona resident and dedicated kangaroo carer, Dawn Brown and her family made space for Wendell, the towering male red kangaroo and cherished family pet of six years who could easily hop over the garden fence but chooses to stay at home in the suburbs.

Wendell (pictured) did briefly return to the adjacent wild. Checking on the red kangaroo’s progress, family members discovered he was not faring well on the outside so they invited him home. Resembling a boxer’s punching bag, a rag bundle hanging from the verandah provides Wendell with high kicking entertainment. I wonder if future generations of Australians might choose a rescue wombat, a bandicoot or glider as a family pet in preference to the carnivores that have captured our hearts for so long.

Coober Pedy has a remarkable rescue service for stray dogs and cats that is run by Dawn Jones, a stoic volunteer of 45 years. Compassionate and dedicated, Dawn and her team of volunteers spend their available time and collectively, an eye watering amount of money on this demanding civic need.

The number of dogs transported south to be re-homed is astounding, about 1,000 per annum. They’ve established a go fund me appeal to help with the purchase of a property and development of a care facility and boarding kennels. Reflecting on the lack of civic support for this vital service and the growing budgets allocated to Government Administrators and consultants, most of my readers will want to join the long suffering residents of Coober Pedy and cry.

Far eclipsing the treasury of opals that lie beneath, the hardy people whose company I’ve sought over many years, truly are the pearls of the Eromanga Sea; a great endorsement of migration’s capacity to refresh our communities and enrich regional Australia’s world view. In this post Covid downturn, I believe a new generation of migrants might be key to the town’s renewal. Filipino couple, Kaysy Clet De Leon and Cherry Anne De Leon opened a new bakery a few years ago to enthusiastic acclaim. And at the time of writing, Sri Lankans appear to dominate “front of house” in hotels and hospitality. Could a new wave of Asian migrants and their descendants revive the town’s culinary scene?

The price of poverty

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By RAINER CHLANDA

Those who work in the social service sector in Alice Springs, as I do, know this fact intimately: there is an incredible amount of money funding our response to a community who have incredibly little.

Our system watches as desperate people stumble and waits for them to fall before extending a paternalistic hand or one gripped around a gavel. Only once crisis strikes comes a swath of expensive support services or an inhumane prison system.

We are building prisons before houses, funding health services but not health, and responding to trauma instead of preventing it. 

I’ve worked in various therapeutic support services with “at risk” youth in touch with the justice system for the last nine years, which brings you up-close with our struggling underclass.

When doing this work, you become a member of a group of “stakeholders” from various services that form a “care team” for the young person.  At the extreme but not uncommon end of the spectrum, a care team may include a Support Worker from a Youth Support Program at an NGO; a Community Corrections (NTG) Case Worker supervising their parole or bail; a Behaviour Support Practitioner; a non-mainstream school attempting daily at-home pickups; a multidisciplinary team of allied health professionals conducting assessments; a Disability Support Worker from the NDIS; a worker from a Diversion Program; and a Government Child Protection Practitioner who oversees all of this.

Dizzying amounts of money and resources swirl around a young person who survives on their portion of their caregiver’s $493 per week parenting-payment.

Cathy Alice at Whitegate by ROD MOSS

If the efforts of the team fail and the young person is incarcerated in a Youth Detention Centre, the tax-payer will cough up a further staggering approximate $900,000 a year, according to the NT News, to detain them in a system that has been proven to further criminalise young offenders (and increasingly so the younger they are). 

The well-intentioned and often highly skilled care team will meet occasionally for updates and to finesse the care plan, but in many meetings I’ve attended, the bulk of the stakeholders have next to no traction with the young person and several will have never laid eyes on them.

Even if a Support Worker achieves regular contact with their clients, their engagement is unlikely to meaningfully resemble the work their respective programs set out to do, as the clients’ much more pressing need to survive takes precedence.

A Social Worker, working for an NGO on a good salary, is likely to find themselves supporting their client and their family to access, for example, an “emergency relief voucher.” This involves picking them up in the organisation’s leased vehicle, often taking them to a local org to have an ID card issued, on to Centrelink for an income statement (and a lengthy wait) and to the bank for a bank statement to evidence their need, then finally to an org that will hopefully issue a $60 food voucher that can be received once a fortnight.

The worker in this scenario has to try hard to avoid the realisation that what their client needs more than their specialised support, is a fraction of their salary.

Whilst “self-determination” is a central tenet in “trauma-informed practice”, the apparatus in place appears to reflect that we’ve decided our clients are incapable of managing daily living tasks and require highly paid professionals to take over.

This isn’t an argument to say that therapeutic programs have no value, but when they are delivered within the context of the constant stress of poverty their important work falls by the wayside, along with any hope of achieving sustainable change.

The issues that determine disadvantage which play out so clearly along racial lines here and throughout our country are stubbornly complex.

Supreme Court Building

The country’s recent answer of “No” to The Voice to Parliament referendum has left us bereft of an opportunity to better understand some of these complexities. However, not every facet of disadvantage is complicated, and there are voices on the ground that are heard but not answered.

The people I work with voice their needs constantly, saying: We need food, we need adequate housing, a working car, we need to get back on Centrelink. Only with basic needs met can people afford to turn their minds to further aspirations such as employment and education and meaningfully exercise self-determination. 

The impediment to meeting these needs lies not with the difficulty of complicated policy design or a lack of evidence to inform them, but with weak social and political will to enact simple measures.

Policy makers could decide tomorrow that everyone who is entitled to a Centrelink payment receives it unconditionally, and that all payments are increased so that no one is in poverty.

Tasking someone with surviving with zero income is an absurd arrangement that the whole community suffers for. This obviously dictates either relying on one’s family for support or acquiring necessities illegally, thereby risking catalysing a cascade of legal processes and interventions which of course completely dwarf the cost of simply keeping that person on their humble income.

An unconditional payment would also save the taxpayer funding the cumbersome division of Centrelink that polices whether recipients meet their obligations. The big stick of this humiliating practice is ultimately futile as, provided English is your first language and you have relative stability and some digital literacy, satisfying the requirements is easily doctored.

Those who wish to “dole bludge” and are of relative privilege work the system and stay on payments whilst those who require the most support fall through the cracks and plunge further in to disadvantage.

The near doubling of Jobseeker Payments during Covid saw millions of people relieved from poverty around the country, and a positive social impact including a dramatic reduction in property crime in the Northern Territory (where residents were not subject to lockdowns) to the lowest in a decade (see graph).

Find details here and here and here.

The assumptions that an unconditional income will generate lazy people and increase anti-social behaviour have failed to materialise in countless experiments of a “Guaranteed Income” (GI) around the world since the 1960s. These experiments have produced a strong evidence base that a GI leads to better health outcomes (not surprising), increases in employment (perhaps surprising), lower crime rates, and increased school attendance amongst a swath of other improved measures of societal health.

The policy, often dismissed as fanciful or idealistic, is increasingly being considered by governments around the world, with the rise of AI and its threat to jobs contributing to its growing relevance. There are over 100 pilots of GI currently being delivered in the US, the ANC South Africa is promising to introduce it if re-elected, while the largest ever trial of it is underway currently in Kenya and showing promising results.

Beyond increasing cash flow to impoverished members of the community (not just to professionals surrounding them), any measure that directly improves the conditions in which the poor survive is the best form of early intervention.

Adequate funding could be allocated so that social housing provision meets the demand. In Alice Springs the estimated wait for social housing is in between six and 10 years with overcrowding in the NT being 43% higher than the national average.

Poker machines could be banned from pubs and clubs (as WA has done and achieved the lowest gambling losses per capita in the country). Better yet would be to eradicate them completely thus stopping the flow of upwards of $14m (figure not including the losses on machines at Lasseter’s Casino as this data is not made public) from the poorest members of our community to rich investors interstate like Iris Capital.

A landmark study of the effects of gambling on crime in NSW just found that increased spending on gambling is associated with increase in assaults, break and enter offences, and motor vehicle theft among other offences.

The gambling industry preys upon addiction and desperation and is unaccountable as its effects ricochet through the community. 

Evidence-based offender rehabilitation and therapeutic programs need to be introduced to the prison. Currently there are none at Alice Springs Correctional Centre, and scarcely any training / work programs.

Persons who are incarcerated in Alice Springs sit on remand for an average of 293 days (statistics from January, 2024) in an understaffed overcrowded prison without air-conditioning.

Can we be surprised that several riots have occurred there during sweltering summer months? Gangs and violence fill the void and we wonder why the NT has the worst rate of recidivism in the country.

Basic measures to address obvious systemic failings stare us in the face whilst we elect a government who believe that the answer to crime lies with locking up ten-year-olds, bringing back spit hoods, and fining (even prosecuting!) parents whose kids miss school.

Ryders and Johnsons in camp. By ROD MOSS.

And, in an unbelievably callous decision announced this week in the CLP’s “Corrections Infrastructure Master Plan”, youth offenders in Alice Springs will be transferred to Darwin Youth Detention Centre to serve their sentences. This will see the most vulnerable members of our community taken 1,500 kms from their home communities, severing contact with their families and support services.

The CLP are also pledging to increase the capacity of the adult prisons across the NT by an extra 1000 beds – a clear indication that they are a government who see imprisonment as a solution, not a contingency.

These punitive measures capitalise on anger, appeal to our lowest common denominator, and have no evidence base whatsoever. Our humanity takes a blow, desperate people suffer further, and division is inflamed.

Support for these policies appears to reflect that we value our right to punish over our right to thrive together, that our thirst for retribution is so great we wish to satiate it in spite of ourselves. But these responses only find traction with inflammatory lies fed to a constituency desperate for relief from chronic crime. 

To address disadvantage, the suffering it encompasses along with the chaos that spills out into the whole community, the “Hard on Crime” fallacy must be resisted and rational, evidence-based responses pursued.

Other reading:

Jobkeeper

Jobseekers

100 GI experiments 

Gambling crime

Social housing

Parenting payment

Labor market

Riot

Gambling harm

Raising detention age

Overcrowding

Tough on crime lore

Proposed changes to jobseeker

Reduction in Crime due to increase payment

PAINTING at top by ROD MOSS, Akeyulerre Easter.

Being part of Oz is lesson from the lost Voice

13

COMMENT by DON FULLER

The Results from The Voice Referendum could not have been clearer.

Australians returned an overwhelming ‘No’ vote, with all States – and around 60% of the country, saying they did not want an Indigenous Voice to Parliament, enshrined in the Constitution.

Despite this conclusive outcome, some do not seem to want to heed the result.

While there are a number of reasons that have been put forward for this definitive result, some seem to stand out more than others.

Perhaps the first of these is that most Australians do not wish to be divided on the basis of race.

However, given the outcome of The Voice, most Australians still have a deep fondness and respect for Aboriginal people and their diverse, fascinating culture.

Rather, it is the urban activists identifying as Aboriginal, some of whom have questionable and distant attachments to Aboriginal societies and cultures that mainstream Australians continue to be highly suspicious of.

This is because they remain concerned that this group continually compromises the legitimate claims of more marginalised Aboriginal people.

Such activists are often held responsible by wider society, for “capturing” and “cornering” the vast amount of finance and resources that most Australians are happy and willing to pay, for the marginalised, more traditional, and far more deserving Aboriginal people(s) living in remote and regional Australia.

Such goodwill raises the question of why activists wish to further promote racial division and disharmony amongst Australians when far more could be gained by working closely together in business and social affairs.

The principles of self-management and self-determination, introduced with excessive haste by the Whitlam government, over 50 years ago, have proved a complete failure at closing the ever-widening social gap in poverty and health, endured by the many marginalised Aboriginal people(s).

However, activists continue to push the notion of self-determination and self-management as the main way forward. Inevitably such approaches lead to questions as to whether this is because they see this as an effective strategy to lobby governments into even more additional funding.

It is also instructive to note how urban activists find it to their advantage to refer to “our people” and “our nation” as if Aboriginal people consisted of one homogeneous mass.

In fact, it is the diversity and differences in Aboriginal groups and communities in thought and social and cultural behaviours that have been long celebrated by the wider community.

The societies and cultures of the  Sea Living Peoples, the Stone Peoples of the Escarpment and the Desert Peoples of the Northern Territory for example, could not be more different and diverse.

How is it remotely possible to compare such cultures, either between each other and particularly, with that of urban based peoples with some attachment to Aboriginal people from some region, from some time ago?

The notion of “our people” also provides activists with the means of claiming funding on behalf of all Aboriginal people(s), from simple-minded governments.

Surely, this strategy is similar to referring to people from Europe as one people, which the many culturally diverse groups would resist and find insulting.

Government funding is therefore not provided to one homogenous European people but to easily identifiable different groups of people. That is, people often defined by country, just as Aboriginal people(s) can be comfortably identified.

Two months ago Warren Mundine (at left) made clear: “Australians do not want divisive and ideology-driven solutions or race-based policies. Australians want real improvements in Indigenous lives and policies directed towards need that deliver outcomes.”

Mundine identified four priorities – economic participation, education, safe communities and accountability. He pointed to the need for a decisive break from existing approaches.

In particular, he pointed to the priority need to change the way traditional lands are collectively owned and controlled by Land Councils. He pointed out that a market driven economy, where individuals can own and buy and sell private property, is fundamental to every successful economy.

In turn, a healthy economy is fundamental to social and human development for Aboriginal people.

He argues persuasively, that the current collective ownership of property and land is a model for government sponsored socialism and that it prevents the key building block for a real economy for Aboriginal people and their communities, which is private land ownership.

This he points out, sets up a vicious cycle of poverty of low school attendance, drug dependence, weak business and employment activity and social dysfunction.

To worsen things further, it also facilitates the capture of the vast government resources available for communities that are land rich but dirt poor, by urban based Aboriginals heading up Land Councils, Investment bodies and other Aboriginal organisations, supposedly for the benefit of marginalised Aboriginal people.

A functioning market economy, the proven method of success around the world, is actively discouraged: “Business ownership – the most important foundation of an economy – is almost non-existent,” Mundine explains.

Yet a system with nearly two-thirds of people in remote communities not working is reinforced by vested interests, often without the connections to land that exist with traditional owners in communities.

This sharp divergence of interests often occurs precisely because genuine traditional owners are not comfortable with meeting and business processes adopted by Land Councils and associated bodies, because much of their thinking and behaviour is of a secret and very private nature.

This is not so for urban Aboriginal people who do not have such strong cultural ties and who have often attended primary and secondary schools and higher education institutions in major urban centres. They are therefore noticeably, far more familiar with mainstream culture and behaviours than with traditional Aboriginal cultures.

Mundine further points out that it is very hard to understand why the Federal and NT governments have to pay for housing and other activities and infrastructure on Aboriginal lands when there are billions in Aboriginal land trusts and investment bodies, including from royalty payments and native title payments.

It is little wonder that Janet Albrechtsen in the Australian asks the question as to whether Aboriginal organisations such as Reconciliation Australia, are all “part of a shake-down racket”!

Certainly weak governments have encouraged this approach, to the detriment of more marginalized and deserving Aboriginal people(s).

It is however promising for Australia that the most talented Aboriginal leader of the time, Noel Pearson, has stated: “I cannot help but return to the fact that belonging to Australia is the only way forward for us. After the referendum defeat there are three possible responses.

“One, just capitulate and admit defeat. Two, being bitter, disillusioned and alienated. And the third way – that we keep making the case we belong to Australia, we belong to this nation.

Our advocacy has got to be about belonging. We are part of the nation. We have nowhere else to go. This is our country and we have to keep making the cause for unity and inclusion.”

It would be beneficial for the nation as a whole if others would heed such wise words.

The very large amount of resources now available for marginalised Aboriginal people needs to be put to urgent, high priority tasks, not invested in some large investment body building wealth for urban Aboriginal managers and some pie in the sky future – far too late for many.

PHOTO at top: Central Land Council in September 2017.

Coober Pedy: Pearls of the Eromanga Sea

8

By MIKE GILLAM

Part 1 of 2

Sitting in a wheelchair, his left leg in plaster, I met 31 year old miner Jay Fitzgerald at the Kangaroo rescue service in Coober Pedy’s main-street. At 9 pm on June 29, 2024 Jay was black lighting on the opal field, when he fell down an old shaft.

Miraculously Jay survived and is expected to rise from his chair in due course. The shattered left leg, caught up on the way down, probably helped to break his fall. A shattered right shoulder and broken ribs took much of the final impact although his back was also broken in two places at L2 & L4, fortuitously not severing the spinal cord.

One of Jay’s companions remained at the pit, the other drove to town for help. The injured man was very lucky not to bleed out while emergency services tried to find and rescue him, a five hour ordeal.

Apparently he now holds the Coober Pedy distance record for surviving a mine shaft fall at 96 feet (29.26 metres). According to a local rescue service responder Jay found one of the deepest shafts, located on a hill, to fall down.

Popular reality television series: Outback Opal Hunters is credited with a rising interest in opal mining and with it, escalation in the odds of misadventure. Disconcerting potentials for vanishing into the void are often quoted by locals, made tongue in cheek but not without some malice.

Underground Pottery

Such commentary channels Coober Pedy’s chequered history of disappearances and misadventure. Stories abound of recklessness; a newspaper office dynamited by some-one with a grievance and a screen message at the Drive-In Theatre asks patrons not to bring explosives to the venue.

Mining partners can be firm friends in poverty and bitter rivals once “colour” starts to show. I’ve heard many variations of opal fever and partnership disputes. Opals are incredibly hard to find, but it’s much more difficult to find an honest partner, they say.

Typically the aggrieved mining partner discovers his “friend” has been clandestinely working night shift at their promising opal seam. Confronted with this duplicity, the partner flippantly replies “better I do it to you than some-one else”. Without solid proof and any hope of justice, sentencing is passed in a flurry of fists.

While Coober Pedy has a reputation centred on macho stereotypes, the town’s women, less overt, are formidable investors in community and social capital. Their education and passion was on full display at a public meeting I attended and wisely, the Government appointed bureaucrats fell silent, in the face of their advocacy on matters of community planning and history.

Gay feminist, Faye Naylor, worked first as a cook, before opening the Windlass Café, a popular destination for locals and tourists. She commenced building an underground home in 1962 and established a hard working all female enclave in the process. Faye understood the importance of social cohesion and her home, replete with swimming pool, became a popular venue for parties and events.

Following the destruction of the Windlass café by a tornado, Faye and partner Ettie Hall moved underground and created the Opal Cave. The 1980 booklet “Coober Pedy 65 Years Young”, elaborates:”For the next eight years … the Opal Cave boomed and today it is Coober Pedy’s tourist mecca with over 760 coaches each year.”

The publication’s wonderfully atmospheric front cover was taken by photographer Peter Caust. The sheer volume of dust plumes hanging in the sky above the “working” opal field reminds us of major changes in the mining fortunes of the town where the air is now so good it’s surely a positive attraction for refugees seeking respite from city pollution.

Faye Naylor’s pivotal role within the local community is highlighted in a 1975 Australian Women’s Weekly story: “At one Christmas party last year there were 65 nationalities represented.”

Recently, Aboriginal involvement in opal mining has attracted conjecture and speculation from the ABC. “The very, very untold history of Coober Pedy’s Aboriginal opal miners” (August 2024).

Aboriginal familiarity with these exquisite gemstones, aeons before European colonisation, is beyond doubt but ochre, needed for painting and ceremony was much more valuable to Australia’s First Peoples.

Arrernte and Luritja people, engaged in ochre mining and trading at an important cultural site in the southern Northern Territory, attracted the attention of the Australasian United Paint Company.

In1935 the Rumbalara Ochre Mine also known as Yellow King and Yellow Queen mines was established with demand for camouflage paint peaking during the war years of 1943-44 with “1345 and 1439 tons” extracted. Heritage Assessment Report by Kay Bailey (1996).

Worker death and injuries at the ochre mines motivated legal changes “made in 1948 prohibiting the employment of Aboriginal people underground” (ibid) with ramifications for the opal industry. The Sydney Morning Herald dated 16 March 1935 records: “Lubra Killed In Ochre Mine … Diana was killed while mining in a tunnel …This is the third accident to blacks employed underground in this district.”

I’ve read several creation stories featuring opal. My favourite from Andamooka is described by Michael Harding in his 2016 PhD thesis: “A mythical ancestor came to Earth on a great rainbow to instruct Aboriginal people on law and practices, before returning to the sky …where the rainbow had rested was a large area of rocks and pebbles of all colours.

“Plenty of Opal Back Then: Opal Pulkah: A History of Aboriginal Engagement In the Northern South Australian Opal Industry c.1940-1980” (p.147).

“Aboriginal cultural life of extensive duration in and around the Coober Pedy region was still evident in the 1970s with annual ceremonies relating to men’s initiations generally taking place between October and March” (p.138).

Kestrel

“Coober Pedy lies almost directly midway between Port Augusta and Alice Springs, a route along which the trading of … ceremonial objects was … well established.” (p.145-6 ibid.)

Coober Pedy 65 Years Young provides further insights: Tom Ryan came to Coober Pedy in July 1930. “Upon arrival … camped about ¾ of a mile north of the Post Office. A few weeks later … joined by about 400 aboriginals who camped only 400 yards away and were good neighbours. Following a death in the camp, they moved to another spot … and gradually drifted away. There were no permanent aboriginals in Coober Pedy, only occasional visitors.” (p.12).

Aboriginal involvement in pastoralism was key from the earliest times. At nearby Strangeways Springs “between 1864 and 1866 was stocked with 7,300 sheep” and dingoes were a constant threat. A place of mound springs and high cultural significance it seems certain that Aboriginal people were employed in the labour intensive roles of shepherding and stock work.

Employment enabled traditional people to maintain connections with sacred sites and provide income support for their families. Aboriginal involvement in commercial opal mining came much later. Compared with pastoralism the opal industry was typically more sedentary however it did offer greater autonomy.

Intuitively I expect that women and children finding opal “floaters” and picking through potch rubble were among the earliest indigenous opal workers but enterprising individuals soon turned their hand to everything from mining, operating bulldozers, opal buying, cutting and polishing. Barney and Dorothy Lennon came to Coober Pedy to search for opal around 1938. “When we arrived there was only twelve white people and about 200 Aborigines.” (p.15, ibid)

Michael Harding’s thesis, explores his subject in great detail: “Aboriginal people began moving into the opal industry by the 1940s and their engagement remained significant until the mid to late 1970s” (p.187).

Quartz carving of Saint James

In March 1957 Aboriginal Protection Board Deputy Chair commented on the “gamble and excitement of searching for opal. (p.165). Women were highly regarded for their noodling abilities … in an industry that was very family-friendly. (p.188). People were attracted from … more distant locations as the industry began to expand. (p.188). One major point of difference … Aboriginal miners had more workplace autonomy than pastoral workers … their own bosses.” (p.189).

As fuel prices increased in the 1970s, underground miners began installing noodling machines and this displaced fossickers. While history records a significant opal fossicking uptake from the 1940s by Aboriginal people I suspect many were reluctant to become fully fledged underground miners, in part because they were concerned about inadvertently causing damage to sacred sites.

The risks of punishment were very real and the earth shattering use of explosives by miners must have been disconcerting. Conversely, noodling / fossicking offered flexibility and seasonal mobility.

From the 1940s eagle eyed Aboriginal women were among the most dedicated and proficient noodlers working on the opal fields. In 1945 Aboriginal woman Tottie Kendall’s find of rich surface opal triggered a rush to the 8 Mile field and a resulting boom. Before long Aboriginal fossickers from the APY Lands came to Coober Pedy to sell opal they’d sourced from Mintabie, 270 km to the north.

Finally in the 1970s the Mintabie boom gathered momentum and according to Wikipedia: “During the 1970s and 1980s, it had a population of over 500 people. Located within the APY Lands, the South Australian Government leased the opal field until 2018 when the residential community was shut down at the behest of traditional owners.

Confident in the strength of their pick arm, many of the miners I’ve known are fiercely independent and deeply suspicious of bureaucrats and politicians. Opal mining in the early days involved a wheelbarrow, pick, shovel, windlass, carbide lamp and hand drill for placing dynamite charges.

Over time mining methods have changed and costs continue to escalate. From dozers, blowers and tunnelling machines to blasting, drilling, tunnelling, noodling or simply using a pick and black light there are many options for those feeling lucky.

I fear it’s nearing the end of an era. Old timers, men and women in their seventies and eighties are a dwindling cohort that occupy an expanding place in my heart.

One octogenarian laughs at my concern and confirms that he takes no medication and never goes to the doctor. Never? Surely not! I prevail on another to please take the mobile phone when she goes walking in the bush alone. For reasons unclear to me, I find this reckless abandon troubling yet admirable.

With tidal ebb and flow, the fortunes of Coober Pedy have oscillated over time. An ageing population of miners is a fact of life and yet renewal is occurring. The incoming tide is bringing a younger generation of miners attracted by the popular TV series “opal hunters” and an improving opal price.

At the time of writing the near worthless potch has sky-rocketed in value and this helps to offset rises in operating costs. Potch is the base stone that must be endlessly worked in the search for elusive opal colour.

Innovative designers and technicians, led by Indian buyers are now polishing potch with its infinite variety of swirling white, yellow, grey, and black tones and creating affordable jewellery that glows on darker skin.

It’s also rumoured that larger pieces of quality potch are a viable alternative for ivory carvers who must abandon the traditions of a murderous and illegal market. Great news for elephants, rhinos, and the mining towns of Coober Pedy and Andamooka if it’s true!

The murmur of wind passing over the dugout’s light wells and air shafts, the ricochet and pitter patter of rain striking the courtyard pavement, the hum of vibrating windows, now the sharp ping of rain on the iron air shafts, and in the far distance, the rush and roar of storm cells sweeping across the landscape.

There’s a faint metallic tapping and I resolve it’s a wisp of moving twig in a zebra finch nest at the top of the air shaft in my bedroom. All these sounds, separated and multi-layered, create the muted symphony of a Coober Pedy storm cell tamed by metres of insulating rock. Soulful and comforting, as hard as I try to stay awake, immersed in this grand soundscape, I am lulled to sleep earlier than usual.

I’m awakened by the endearing sounds of baby zebra finches expecting to be fed, a gentle way to confront the challenges of a new day. What the hell, I’m still in bed listening to baby finches! My phone provides shocking confirmation that it’s a few minutes to eight. I’ve learned that you really must set the alarm when sleeping underground.

Opal inlay plate by Jim Theodorou of the Big Miner

Beneath the petrified tides of the Eromanga Sea, these are the deepest and most restful sleeps of my life. The zebra finch chatter sparks early childhood memories of my paternal grandfather. Percy would have loved Coober Pedy and been in agreeable company with the returned ANZACs who settled here. WW1 veterans, pioneers of trench warfare, are credited with building early Coober Pedy dugouts to escape the heat.

As a small child I recall one-sided conversations with my grandfather who sat inside a bird aviary surrounded by zebra finches, lost in a book and shutting out everyone. Hanging from the aviary ceiling, reconstructed coconut shells with an entry hole, were his nesting box innovation that soon caused a population explosion of finches. Evacuated from that WW1 hell on earth, the Somme, they removed most but not all the shrapnel from Percy’s legs. He was the lucky one, his friends on either side were blasted to oblivion by the artillery shell.

The faces of gruff miners crumple, my questions about their past in war ravaged Europe unanswered. Catastrophe propelled them here and I’m reminded of my fortunate life. I never heard my grandfather speak a single word but the finches speak for him and all the war impacted survivors that find a measure of peace in such places.

“The stars blazed in thousands, more and more of them as the darkness grew intense, till the Milky Way was like a bracelet of diamonds a million miles long … If we could see the stars only once in a hundred years from one particular spot, people would come crowding from all over the world to see the miracle … We never appreciate what we’ve got.” From Thiele’s “The Fire in the Stone”. (p.61)

My friend Slavco-Steve, 84, was born in Montenegro. We sit on the verandah overlooking a stunning view, a night sky that merges with the twinkling lights of distant neighbours. Our companion, Les Hoad, aged 83, worked as water supply manager for more than a decade and was elected the last Mayor of Coober Pedy.

I ask Les why he sought election in 2018 when the record of the previous Town Council looked so dire, a scathing report from the State Ombudsman making findings of financial maladministration? “I thought I could help” he replied gruffly. Pausing for a moment, Les continued: “I’ve lived here 33 years, I have two children who still live here, five grandchildren and four great grandchildren, what else could I do?”

Unbeknown to Coober Pedy voters, the state Government of South Australia had an alternative plan. The election process played out and the incoming Town Council was suspended after nine weeks. Thereafter the first Administrator was appointed in a process that has expanded with an additional two part time “Administrators” and six years later, no end in sight.

Stone masonry

Peter Rowe’s wonderful pottery kiln was last fired in 2008 but I sense the visual arts and film industries of Coober Pedy are sleeping giants that will rise in the future. Perhaps the Opal festival will broaden its scope in time to include an equal billing for the fossils of the Eromanga Sea. The town might declare Coober Pedy a dark sky destination, a place of solace for weary millions taking a break from their shuttered lives?

Of course those looking north from the ivory towers of Adelaide may have different ideas. As a resident of Alice Springs I do understand the disconnect, injustice and inefficiency of life in remote regions controlled by distant overlords. If Coober Pedy is going to thrive in the future, city decentralisation in favour of regional autonomy is critical.

Historically the Federal and South Australian Governments have viewed the remote north as a suitable place for a missile and atomic testing range, a toxic waste dump perhaps, a region where corporate miners are more than celebrated and small miners too often treated with disdain.

NOTE: In the text above we changed “the incoming Town Council was summarily sacked” to “the incoming Town Council was suspended”. We regret the error.

PHOTO AT TOP: Big Miner.

All text and images © MIKE GILLAM

 

Another call to last drinks

1

By ERWIN CHLANDA

Central Australian Aboriginal Congress rarely misses an opportunity to preach its alcohol control gospel.

This time it’s a lecture for the new NT Government not to wind back supply regulations lest this leads to “a wave of alcohol related domestic violence, assaults, and social disorder”.

And as previously, the health NGO’s reasoning is based on selected facts supporting its objectives.

Congress CEO Donna Ah Chee makes much of the decrease in alcohol-caused domestic violence, emergency department admissions and other problems following Stronger Futures, which had the opposite effect than its Orwellian name was suggesting.

It was a no brainer that allowing alcohol into town camps and communities would spell disaster. No wonder the statistics went through the roof. The absurd policy was discontinued and the problem numbers unsurprisingly dropped. To claim that as success of the current alcohol policy is misleading.

In a media release Ms Ah Chee states: “There is overwhelming evidence that regulating the supply of alcohol – including through a floor price, reduced takeaway trading hours, and the Police Auxiliary Liquor Inspectors (PALIs) – is a highly effective way to reduce crime.”

Yet again Congress does not acknowledge that the current draconian alcohol control measures are failing to have long-term benefits although its own statistics show that this is the case.

Congress produces a monthly update of “Effects of Alcohol Policy on Alcohol related harm in Alice Springs, 2015 to 2024”. The current edition includes statistics of alcohol related hospital emergency department presentations (above).

It shows there were 5344 of them between January 2019 and March 2020, and 5868 from January 2023 to March 2024. That’s an increase of 524.

During that first period the measures already in place included Police Auxiliary Liquor Inspectors (PALIs) at bottle shops, a Banned Drinkers Register, a Minimum Unit Price of $1.30 per standard drink and a new Liquor Act that included risk-based licensing and greater monitoring of on-licence drinking.

As Congress points out, on January 25, 2023 further regulations were imposed including one sale per day per person, alcohol free days on Mondays and Tuesdays for takeaway purchases, limited hours between 3pm to 7pm except for Saturdays, only one bottle of spirits, and so on.

Yet the calculation of quantity consumed is based on the reports by wholesalers. This does not include alcohol obtained online from retailers, neither is the consumption from tourists factored in, a likely substantial drop as the industry is suffering a sharp decline. Locals clearly made up the balance.

Ms Ah Chee says: “There is overwhelming evidence that regulating the supply of alcohol … is a highly effective way to reduce crime.”

But the public does not have a current picture of offending: “Following the implementation of the NT Police SerPro system in November 2023, the crime statistics from December 2023 onwards have been determined to be not comparable with earlier published NT crime statistics”.

In 2022/23 Congress had a budget of $66.9m and spent $48.7m on employee benefits. $42.6m came from the Australian Government and $5.7m from the NT.

The Alice Springs News asked Ms Ah Chee if she wanted to comment but she did not reply.

IMAGE at top: The “health hub” of Congress under construction across the road from the hospital which has similar objectives but is controlled by elected politicians, not a race-based NGO.

Getting tourism back on the rails

3

By ERWIN CHLANDA

For most people travelling is a means to an end – getting somewhere.

For us in the vastness of outback Australia it’s an end in itself, an adventure, a buzz, something you brag about to your mates.

You may be a Japanese conquering the Stuart Highway’s 1226 km between Port Augusta and Alice Springs, gathering brownie points for the afterlife, saying “I want walk” if you offer him a lift.

On the opposite end is luxuriating in the five star hotel on rails, The Ghan, named after the Afghans who were doing it on camels. It may well have the formula for rescuing our ailing tourism industry.

Dinner at the Telegraph Station.

And of course the quintessential travellers, nomadic Aboriginal people have been doing this for 65,000 years, on foot traversing the unforgiving country, creating databases in their heads about food and water, ample if you know where they are, as well as formulating the laws of complex political and social systems of land possession and responsibility.

One thing this big country is not: Empty.

My trip on the Ghan started with expectations shaped by fares such as $8300 for a Platinum ticket Darwin to Adelaide per person one way.

Setting off in Alice Springs for Adelaide I expected to be in the company of multi millionaires if not billionaires at a starlight dinner (regrettably it was cloudy) at the Overland Telegraph Station.

Journey Beyond, the company running The Ghan, is leasing this prime historical site from NT Parks, including the precinct and trail station cafe.

I sat next to the retired head of a medium size company’s HR section.

“Are you a millionaire,” I probed, hesitantly.

“No. These people are workers. They saved and now they are here.”

A look around confirmed this: Mostly middle-class retired couples, clearly having made friends on the trip from Darwin. This is a much friendlier bunch than I expected.

Lunch in a dugout.

That is subtly encouraged by Journey Beyond. The meals (mains – Black Angus grain fed sirloin or chicken roulade; sides – herbed roasted potatoes, glazed baby vegetables, native pepper jus, medley leaf salad with balsamic dressing) were served in dishes to share: “Care for another steak? Pass the potatoes, please” can be handy conversation starters.

A similar strategy was in place when we had lunch in a dugout in Coober Pedy the following day, 12 metres under ground in excavated rooms with ochre coloured rock walls and ceilings, a former opal mine.

During the dinner the night before Ghan passengers did rounds of the historic buildings and watched the blacksmith forging bottle openers from Old Ghan rail spikes.

Local band Hard Beat’s middle-of-the-road gig soon had the dance floor buzzing.

A conga line formed behind a member of the train staff, the people universally praised by the travellers I spoke with.

No Sir this, Madam that. No white gloves.

It’s first names, right from boarding.

“When we recruit staff our first question is, do you like people,” says Turkish-born train manager Zafer Tasci, looking after 211 passengers in a train that’s nearly a kilometre long.

The 14 hour working days do not put the staff off, I was told by several of them, because after a week’s work they get a full week off.

Our train was sectioned into four “bubbles” each with four to six carriages, a lounge car and a dining car.

The rooms – too big to call them cabins – have two single or one double bed which are made into comfortable lounge chairs during the day. There is an ensuite. After flushing a jet squirts two short puffs of deodorant into the toilet bowl. Nothing is left to chance.

I found sleeping blissful. The rails are welded, no little gaps which caused the conventional klonk-klonk, klnonk-klonk. There is just that gentle rocking.

The Ghan is probably the only way to cross a continent on the ground without touching your credit card. Absolutely everything is provided. Drinks and nibbles in abundance. Even in the bush destinations are little stalls set up with Bollinger champagne, beer and soft drinks.

A flute of Bollinger in your room as you first board. Care for a night cup? Whiskey, please. Sure enough, you return from you evening “off-train experience” and there it is.

The Breakaways near Coober Pedy

In Alice Springs these experiences include the West MacDonnells beauty spots Simpson’s Gap and Standley Chasm. In Coober Pedy, the Breakaways north-east of town, the superb underground Serbian Orthodox Church of Saint Elijah the Prophet and the opal mining museum, the latter providing some “free time” which is a synonymous for opportunity to buy some colourful gems. (Here the credit card does come in handy.)

Off-train experiences are undertaken in Journey Beyond’s own coaches.

They start from the safety of the train and end there.

Mr Tasci, who describes The Ghan as a cruise liner on rails, says the company of course doesn’t stop passengers from doing their own thing – but it is not encouraged.

If they are wandering around Alice Springs “we can’t guarantee their safety. We like them to stay with our tours”.

And here is the kind of thing why. Police report September 16, 2024, three days before my train overnighted in Alice: “At about 5:00am on Sunday, four males unlawfully entered a hotel room while the occupant was asleep, stealing alcohol and personal belongings.

“Shortly after, the same group allegedly unlawfully entered an occupied room at another nearby hotel. One of the offenders was reportedly armed with a machete during the second incident.”

While tourists are staying away in droves, fearing for their safety, and driven by hysterical Facebook rubbish, Journey Beyond may well have the formula for bringing them back.

The company was bought by the US Hornblower Group for a reported $600m in 2022. It was Australia’s largest experiential tourism business.

Acquisitions since 2015 had included Cruise Whitsundays and Rottnest Express, the Eureka Tower Skydeck, Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures, Outback Spirit Tours and Darwin Harbour Cruises.

The company is now under sole ownership of New York based private equity firm Crestview Partners which has a reported $10 billion in capital commitments.

Journey Beyond has a separate capital structure in Australia and its own sources of funding, according to a spokesperson.

The firm is clearly on the go with the recent acquisition of Vintage Rail Journey “immersing guests with the breathtaking landscape of NSW [in] the state’s Golden West, the Riverina Rail Tour into Australia’s ‘food bowl’, Northern NSW coast, as well as special event trips to the Elvis Festival in Parkes and the Bathurst 1000,” says the blurb.

Opportunities for Alice Springs clearly include enticing Ghan passengers to break the journey here and resuming it on the next service – or the one after.

The Staircase to Heaven near Standley Chasm.

A spokeswoman says “Australia’s leading experiential tourism group” operates 16 brands spanning the nation, “connecting guests to the land, and to each other”.

Headquartered in Adelaide, Journey Beyond was formed in 2016 and now comprises tourism brands including: Iconic trains The Ghan, Indian Pacific, Great Southern, The Overland and Vintage Rail Journeys; premium small-group outback operator Outback Spirit; eco-luxe lodge Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef; aquatic adventures Cruise Whitsundays, Rottnest Express, the Paspaley Pearl Farm Tour, Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures, Darwin Harbour Cruises and Journey Beyond Cruise Sydney, Melbourne Skydeck and Eureka 89, the historic Vintage Rail Journeys and the Telegraph Station in Alice Springs.

The Ghan has 75 carriages operating both weekly services from April to October, including crew, luggage and power vans.

In Alice Springs are five road coaches and eight in Coober Pedy.

There are 75 employees across Darwin and Alice terminals and coaches, plus six crews of 45 team members rotating through the Ghan.

Journey Beyond Rail has 584 employees across all rail operations and about 1600 employees for all of the company.

In Alice it has around 30 to 40 suppliers and across the Ghan around 80 in total.

Bradley Campbell, General Manager Rail Operations says: “Suppliers we have worked with in Alice over the last 10 years include Standley Chasm, Earth Sanctuary, Pyndan Camel Tracks, School of the Air, Reptile Centre and Tailormade Tours.”

The underground Serbian Orthodox Church of Saint Elijah the Prophet.

Next time maybe you break the Ghan trip in Alice Springs, head bush in a 4WD, nicking off from the “bitumen” down a dirt track as the sun sets, throwing your swag in a dry creek, cooking on a small fire and before you close your eyes, being overwhelmed by the endless number of stars in a sky that couldn’t be any clearer.

Who knows, Journey Beyond may branch out into that as well.

Or fly at 10,000 feet in a light aircraft, chart on your knees, ticking off landmarks which are rare – hills and creeks and major roads, not minor ones because they come and go in a landscape whose age is measured in millions of years.

Not arriving but “gettin there” is what it’s all about, yarned about under a tree in the savannah or desert as big as a European country, or in a pub, caravan park, around the campfire.

Or at a BBQ when you get home to that small, crowded rest of Australia “down south”.

PHOTO AT TOP: The rail siding Manguri is one of the journey’s oddities. It is as close as the train gets to Coober Pedy, 40 km away, although the town is the only settlement of any size between Alice Springs and Port Augusta. A local myth, according to one resident, is that the $1.6 billion railway line was not welcome by a handful of business people in the town. And so passengers from and to the opal mining capital are subjected to a bumpy ride on a corrugated dirt road to get access to what was compared to the Snowy System in terms of importance to the nation and its taxpayers.

Images by Alice Springs News and Journey Beyond.

UPDATE October 2, 2024:

Danial Rochford, CEO of Tourism Central Australia, provided the following comment:

Visitors tell us day in day out about the incredible experiences they have in Central Australia. Whether it is travelling on The Ghan, exploring the Larapinta trail or visiting vibrant Alice Springs to experience all the amazing attractions, visitors are having an awesome time.

We appreciate all the work our industry are doing to make sure our visitors have the best experience possible.

Tourism Central Australia also welcome the Government’s efforts to enhance community safety through increased police presence and measures to reduce crime and anti-social behaviour.

Dick Kimber, 1939 to 2024

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It is with great sadness that we record the passing of Central Australia’s premier scholar, one of our most outstanding editorial contributors and all up a very fine man, Dick Kimber, after a long illness.

He will be missed throughout the community.

We send our heartfelt condolences to Margaret and family – Erwin Chlanda and Kieran Finnane.

“Real True History: The Coniston Massacre” was an 18-part account, painstakingly researched, impressively written, about a dark part of Central Australia’s history.

Find more about Dick and his work at Dick Kimber: premier scholar of Central Australia with links to his writings in the Alice Springs News.

Gallery south of Gap: Anger over government ‘no’

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By ERWIN CHLANDA

The art gallery should be “South of the Gap” was the main message of protesters at the foot of Anzac Hill yesterday, but a spokesman for Chief Minister Lea Finocchiaro confirmed this morning this is not what they are going to get.

One speaker at the protest said: “We won’t budge.”

The crowd of 60, young and old, had entered this major women’s sacred site through a pre-existing hole in the fence. Fittingly it was mostly women, about half of them black and half white, a sign of mutual support, as one of them put it.

The present conflict is likely to be a repetition of the row between the Labor government four years ago and a section of the Aboriginal community not unlike yesterday’s.

The Minister responsible for the gallery, Lauren Moss, said in May 2020: “Clearly no site will get consensus.”

It seems today’s CLP Chief Minister is creating a narrative inviting the same conclusion.

Last week, announcing a “pause” in project, she said: “We will make sure people in Alice Springs and associated communities understand next steps and come on the journey with us in developing the best facilities for the Red Centre.”

Said one woman: “They are trying to look like good guys. A political stunt, but it looks like doing the same thing as the last government, dominate over the voices of the people, and not consulting properly about what the people from here want.”

Another woman: “Is it for the rugby kind of audience, or first nations people, and their voices?”

Another woman: “There is no good will towards us.”

In 2020 Benedict Stevens, as Apmereke artweye a senior custodian for the town, having at first supported the Anzac Hill site, joined Apmereke artweye Doris Stuart and other custodians to demand the gallery to be sited south of The Gap, .

Mr Stevens subsequently reverted to tacit support of  the Anzac Hill site. Ms Stuart has remained adamantly opposed. She was not present yesterday because of illness but her family was strongly represented.

A senior member of the Stuart family, Faron Peckham (pictured, with Yvonne Driscoll), as the last speaker, said the new government “drew in the rugby union and league fraternity … conquering and dividing.

“She [the Chief Minister] was very clear, it was not to be south of The Gap. She had to put her mark on the project.

“We won’t budge, because this site is significant. It forms part of our cultural landscape here. It’s about us. It’s about the future generation.

“Watching the destruction now, what future does it give them? What cultural identity does it give them when they live here? We’re not going to be directed by what they [the government] are saying.

“This is our country. You are our community. We share this country. We’ve always shared this country, on the premises of respect and acknowledgement. We should not become a byproduct of commercialisation.

“We’ve got to go back to the roots of who we are as people or as a community.

“She [the Chief Minister] had no mind about the anti social stuff that’s happening in this town. They seem to discard it. There is tourism and commercial interest other than what I call poverty. Building an art gallery here isn’t going to fix it.”

Politicians were thin on the ground yesterday. MLA for Braitling Joshua Burgoyne had been invited but didn’t show.

Town Council member Marli Banks was there and encouraged the crowd to attend question time at the next council meeting, and perhaps send a deputation to Darwin when Parliament resumes next month.

PHOTO at top: Arrernte custodians of this women’s site (from left) Kristy Bloomfield, Kirsty Bloomfield, Elaine Peckham, Karen Liddle, Barb Satour. Rear: Zania Liddle, Dorn Ross and Colleen Mack.

Gallery on hold, plans to save Anzac Oval

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In Alice Springs today, Chief Minister Lia Finocchiaro, with the Members of Namatjira and Braitling, Bill Yan and Joshua Burgoyne.

By ERWIN CHLANDA

“There is a pause in the current Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Gallery of Australia program of work to work through the next steps,” Treasurer Bill Yan announced this morning.

The gallery will be built but “we will make sure people in Alice Springs and associated communities understand next steps and come on the journey with us in developing the best facilities for the Red Centre.

“Unlike Labor, we have listened to the community and taken decisive action to put the demolition of Anzac Oval on hold,” Minister Yan said.

“We will do this right and engage with the community around how we can save ANZAC Oval and deliver an iconic project of social and economic importance to Alice Springs,” Minister Joshua Burgoyne said.

“We will do this right and engage with the community around how we can save ANZAC Oval and deliver an iconic project of social and economic importance to Alice Springs,” Minister Burgoyne said.